ADVANCED CLINICALS

Collagen Lotion + Peptide Cream

Name: ADVANCED CLINICALS - Collagen Lotion + Peptide Cream
Brand: ADVANCED CLINICALS

Efficacy 58/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 3 advertised claims delivered

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "ADVANCED CLINICALS - Collagen Lotion + Peptide Cream" works well for improving skin hydration As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Glycerin, soluble collagen, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, helianthus annuus extract, butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride and cetyl alcohol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl oligopeptide 0.55% - 1.25% and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.85% - 1.30%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e

Irritation risk

There are actives in this product that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

8 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, soluble collagen.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7Role: HeroA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.85–1.3%

PALMITOYL OLIGOPEPTIDERole: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–1.25%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.4%

HELIANTHUS ANNUUS EXTRACTRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.7%

SOLUBLE COLLAGENRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.9%

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2.6%

SYNTHETIC BEESWAXRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.75%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.8–4.2%

Anti-aging

3 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Good evidence

This product contains palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7Role: HeroA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.85–1.3%

PALMITOYL OLIGOPEPTIDERole: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–1.25%

Evens skin tone

10 key actives in the formula

Weak evidence

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

GlycerinRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.4%

Cetyl alcoholRole: Key activeA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~3–4.5%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideRole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.8–4.2%

Butyrospermum parkii butterRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2.6%

Soluble collagenRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.9%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Role: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.85–1.3%

Palmitoyl oligopeptideRole: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.55–1.25%

Synthetic beeswaxRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.75%

Helianthus annuus extractRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.7%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractRole: Key activeCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.15–0.65%

Irritancy

6 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 6 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~2.8–4.2%est.

Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinLow~1–1.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.1–0.4%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.05–0.25%est.

Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureLow~0.05–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

Butyrospermum parkii butter ~1.7–2.6% — rinse-off or low %

Some risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicalsHigh~1.7–2.6%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels