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1
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zinc oxide 15%
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A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant
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2
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allantoin
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Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
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3
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aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice
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Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
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4
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argania spinosa (argan) kernel oil
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An emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties
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5
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ascorbic acid
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One of the few well researched potent anti-aging ingredients. When it is able to penetrate the skin in an active state, it is effective against fine lines and wrinkles, helps improve skin elasticity and reduce hyperpigmentation. It acts as a powerful anti-oxidant and stimulates collagen production. The main issue with ascorbic acid is that it is highly unstable, in other words, it is losing its effectivenss quickly when exposed to air and light (if a serum or cream containing ascorbic acid has an orange color, it is a likely that the ingredient has oxidized and is no longer active). In addition, it is water-soluble, meaning that it has difficulty pentrating the skin. It is also quite irritating, and can cause stinging. When used in low concentrations, helps stabilize the product formulation
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6
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bisabolol
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An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
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7
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butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter
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A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
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8
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caprylhydroxamic acid
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A preservative
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9
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caprylyl glycol
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Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
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10
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cetearyl alcohol
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A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
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11
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cetearyl glucoside
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Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture
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12
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cetearyl olivate
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Helps oil and water mix together
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13
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coco-caprylate/caprate
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Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture
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14
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cocos nucifera (coconut) oil
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An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
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15
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coconut alkanes
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An emollient that helps soften the skin
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16
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curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract
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A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant
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17
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ethylhexylglycerin
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A preservative
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18
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ferulic acid
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A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%
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19
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glycerin
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One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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20
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heptyl undecylenate
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Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish
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21
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hexylene glycol
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Helps create a more spreadable product texture
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22
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lecithin
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Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
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23
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niacinamide
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Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture
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24
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panthenol
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Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
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25
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polyhydroxystearic acid
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Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulation
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26
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pullulan
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Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
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27
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sclerotium gum
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Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions
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28
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sodium hyaluronate
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One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
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29
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sodium pca
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Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
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30
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sorbitan olivate
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Helps oil and water mix together
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31
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squalane
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An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
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32
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tanacetum annuum (blue tansy) flower oil
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33
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tocopherol
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Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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34
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xanthan gum
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Used to create a thicker product consistency
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