111SKIN

Nocturnal Eclipse Recovery Cream NAC Y2 DELUXE

Name: 111SKIN - Nocturnal Eclipse Recovery Cream NAC Y2 DELUXE
Brand: 111SKIN

Efficacy 62/100·Medium irritancy · In 1 routines

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

8 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate.

LINOLEIC ACIDRole: Under-dosedAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.35–0.6%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.2–0.35%

ISOPROPYL MYRISTATERole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic~5.4–6.5%

ORYZA SATIVA BRAN OILRole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.45–0.7%

SODIUM HYALURONATERole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.3–5.3%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–0.6%

Anti-aging

3 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Partial evidence

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - sodium ascorbyl phosphate - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient sodium ascorbyl phosphate might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

RETINYL PALMITATERole: Under-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.4%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Irritancy

13 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–1%est.

Aesculus hippocastanum seed extractPlant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.6%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~4.3–5.3%est.

Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~1.9–2.4%est.

Ceteareth-25Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~1.7–2.1%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationLow~0.5–0.75%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CLow~0.45–0.65%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Low~0.4–0.6%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.25–0.5%est.

Diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonateUsed to stabilize the product formulationLow~0.15–0.25%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.05–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

Isopropyl myristate ~5.4–6.5% — rinse-off or low %

Some risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Isopropyl myristateAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenicHigh~5.4–6.5%est.

Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollientMed~2.8–3.4%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels