ZYMOGEN Ultra Facial Aqua Cream

ZYMOGEN Ultra Facial Aqua Cream

Efficacy41/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
17 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Ultra Facial Aqua Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethiconol.

TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.25–0.45%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.15%
DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.45–0.7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.1%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~2.5–3%
Polyglutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin.~0.1–0.2%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.1–2.5%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~3.2–3.9%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.75–1.15%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–0.7%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~6.5–8%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.25%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.25–0.5%
PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
CyclohexasiloxaneEffect: Low, below effective doseA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~0.55–0.8%
Anti-aging
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“The presence of actives such as "good" bacteria helps control blemishes, and offers anti-aging and brightening benefits.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - beta-glucan - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.15%
Anti-blemish
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“The presence of actives such as "good" bacteria helps control blemishes, and offers anti-aging and brightening benefits.”
Source: Yesstyle

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.15%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Citrus limon peel oil
Medium risk
We flagged 8 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extractAn enzyme-based exfoliantHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenicMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
Aluminum starch octenylsuccinateUsed to thicken the product's consistencyMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isostearyl isostearateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic3/5~1.5–1.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butylene glycol~6.5–8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Glycerin~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane~3.2–3.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Helianthus annuus seed oil~2.5–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Squalane~2.1–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Peg/ppg-18/4 copolymer~1.7–2%
Formula
Isostearyl isostearate~1.5–1.8%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product texture. It can be comedogenic

More about Isostearyl isostearate
Bacillus/corchorus olitorius leaf ferment filtrate~1.2–1.4%
Formula
1,2-hexanediol~0.7–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Cetyl alcohol~0.75–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to thicken the product's consistency

More about Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate
Cyclohexasiloxane~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Polysorbate 60~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Dimethiconol~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol
Glyceryl stearate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Phenoxyethanol~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sorbitan stearate~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Arginine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Lactobacillus/soymilk ferment filtrate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Lactobacillus/panax ginseng root ferment filtrate~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin tone

An enzyme-based exfoliant

More about Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Panthenol~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Trehalose~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Allantoin~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Citrus limon peel oil~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Polyglutamic acid~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin.

More about Polyglutamic acid
Beta-glucan~0.05–0.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Ingredient list view

Water, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Squalane, Peg/ppg-18/4 copolymer, Isostearyl isostearate, Bacillus/corchorus olitorius leaf ferment filtrate, 1,2-hexanediol, Cetyl alcohol, Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polysorbate 60, Dimethiconol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitan stearate, Arginine, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Lactobacillus/soymilk ferment filtrate, Lactobacillus/panax ginseng root ferment filtrate, Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Panthenol, Trehalose, Allantoin, Citrus limon peel oil, Sodium hyaluronate, Polyglutamic acid, Beta-glucan

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$24.20
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ZYMOGENUltra Facial Aqua CreamYOUR PRODUCTCetaphilBody Lotion with Niacinamide and Ceramide Technology, Skin Care, 24 hour Long-lasting Moisturiser, for Dry, Itchy, Sensitive and Eczema-prone Skin, Non-comedogenic3LABAnti-Aging CreamdermaGEEKNourishing Facial Night Cream
Match—58%58%58%
Price$24.20—$544.68+$520.48$19.94−$4.26
Shared key ingredients—8 of 136 of 135 of 13
Key difference—Hydroxypalmitoyl SphinganineAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2Niacinamide
Irritancy Medium Low High Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

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ZYMOGEN Ultra Facial Aqua Cream
ZYMOGENUltra Facial Aqua Cream

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