PRODUCT REVIEW
ZENii Advanced Retinol Complex
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What can the product work for?
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Retinol is one of the most highly researched skincare ingredients and is used to treat signs of ageing, pigmentation, enlarged pores and acne.
retinol
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
retinyl palmitate
0.5% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Retinol is one of the most highly researched skincare ingredients and is used to treat signs of ageing, pigmentation, enlarged pores and acne.
retinol
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
retinyl palmitate
0.5% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
tocopherol
1.1% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Retinol is one of the most highly researched skincare ingredients and is used to treat signs of ageing, pigmentation, enlarged pores and acne.
retinol
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
retinyl palmitate
0.5% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Advanced Retinol Complex
caprylic/capric triglyceride
7.1% -
8.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer
2.4% -
2.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency
glycerin
2.1% -
2.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
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Exfoliation
retinol
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
retinyl palmitate
0.5% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Anti-oxidation
retinol
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
tocopherol
1.1% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
sodium ascorbyl phosphate
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
93/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
propylene glycol
3.1% -
3.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
retinol
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
isopropyl palmitate
4.4% -
5.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
Similar products & dupes
| ZENii - Advanced Retinol Complex |  Kiehl's - Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum Sponsored |  Swissline - Youth Booster |  Balance Active Formula - Retinol + Hyaluronic Booster |  Elizabeth Grant - Advanced Retinol Serum |  First Aid Beauty - Skin Lab Retinol Serum 0.25% Pure Concentrate Sensitive |  SVR - ABC Ampoule Lift A |  Sothys - Cosmeceutique RX Retinol Dermobooster |  Philosophy - Help Me Retinol Night Treatment |  No7 - Pure Retinol 1% Night Concentrate |  Shani Darden Skin Care - Retinol Reform |  CeraVe - Skin Renewing Retinol Serum | |
| Price | ||||||||||||
| WIMJ similarity score |
85%
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96%
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93%
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91%
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91%
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90%
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90%
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90%
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90%
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90%
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90%
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| Common:
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
retinol
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
tocopherol
1.1% -
1.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-aging
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Show more
Potential irritants
propylene glycol
3.1% -
3.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
retinol
1.4% -
1.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
isopropyl palmitate
4.4% -
5.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
All ingredients
caprylic/capric triglyceride
7.1% -
8.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
isopropyl palmitate
4.4% -
5.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Isopropyl palmitate, Propylene glycol, Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Tocopherol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Hydrolyzed silk, Phenoxyethanol, Decylene glycol, Caprylyl glycol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Bht, Parfum, Hydroxycitronellal, Unknown, Cyclohexane, Butylphenyl methylpropional, Linalool
Sources
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Isopropyl Isostearate
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Moisturizing efficiency of silk protein hydrolysate: Silk fibroin
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies