Works for
1 of 1 advertised claim delivered
Anti-agingTripeptide-29, Hyaluronic acid + 2 moreModerate evidence
“Working to replenish and fortify the epidermis, the concentrate expertly restores the skin's natural barrier and boosts resilience; skin is better equipped to combat external aggressors and free radical attacks to maintain a healthy, youthful-looking complexion.”
This product contains tripeptide-29. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
MoisturizingNot advertised by the brand · Linoleic acid, Tripeptide-29 + 18 moreStrong evidence
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
hyaluronic acid, saccharomyces cerevisiae extract.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, ethyl linoleate.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid, tripeptide-29
Anti-blemishNot advertised by the brand · Ethyl linoleate, Linoleic acid + 1 moreGood evidence
This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains ethyl linoleate.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: linoleic acid
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy5 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil + 3 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
Comedogenic2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale2 flagged
User reviews
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Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Coco-caprylate/caprate~22–33%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture
More about Coco-caprylate/caprateCaprylic/capric triglyceride~5.5–8.3%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
More about Caprylic/capric triglycerideC10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters~3.3–5%
Caprylyl caprylate/caprate~4–6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
More about Caprylyl caprylate/caprateIsoamyl laurate~3–4.6%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps stabilize emulsions and create a nice product texture
More about Isoamyl laurateGlycine soja lipids~2.3–3.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Zea mays oil~1.6–2.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function
More about Zea mays oilLinoleic acid~1.6–2.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores
More about Linoleic acidPhospholipids~1.2–1.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product
More about PhospholipidsOctyldodecanol~1.1–1.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
More about OctyldodecanolIsoamyl cocoate~0.85–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps oil and water mix together and works as a cleansing agent
More about Isoamyl cocoate7-dehydrocholesterol~0.55–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Pro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasis
More about 7-dehydrocholesterolPlankton extract~0.5–1.2%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Plankton extractGanoderma lucidum extract~0.5–1.15%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Ganoderma lucidum extractAgaricus bisporus extract~0.45–1.05%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Lentinus edodes extract~0.45–1.05%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Usnea barbata extract~0.45–1.05%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract~0.4–0.95%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A moisturizing ingredient that works as a humectant to attract water to the upper layer of the skin.
More about Saccharomyces cerevisiae extractGlycine soja sterols~0.45–1.05%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps soften the skin
More about Glycine soja sterolsGlycolipids~0.4–0.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Lecithin~0.45–1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
More about LecithinLinolenic acid~0.45–1.05%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation
More about Linolenic acidHyaluronic acid~0.35–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
More about Hyaluronic acidTripeptide-29~0.35–0.8%
Sodium chondroitin sulfate~0.35–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Is naturally present in skin. Helps to attract water to its upper layer
More about Sodium chondroitin sulfateEthyl linoleate~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking
More about Ethyl linoleateEthyl linolenate~0.4–0.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Ethyl oleate~0.3–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Ethyl oleate is a long-chain fatty acid ethyl ester resulting from the formal condensation of the carboxy group of oleic acid with the hydroxy group of ethanol. It derives from an oleic acid. In skincare, it is used to soften the upper layer of the skin, improve the product texture and smell
More about Ethyl oleateArachidyl propionate~0.35–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Retinyl palmitate~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- High
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
More about Retinyl palmitateTocopherol~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
More about TocopherolPelargonium graveolens leaf oil~0.15–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- High
An essential oil used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
More about Pelargonium graveolens leaf oilCitronellol~0.1–0.35%
Geraniol~0.1–0.35%
Linalool~0.1–0.3%
Ingredient list view
Coco-caprylate/caprate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, C10-30 cholesterol/lanosterol esters, Caprylyl caprylate/caprate, Isoamyl laurate, Glycine soja lipids, Zea mays oil, Linoleic acid, Phospholipids, Octyldodecanol, Isoamyl cocoate, 7-dehydrocholesterol, Plankton extract, Ganoderma lucidum extract, Agaricus bisporus extract, Lentinus edodes extract, Usnea barbata extract, Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, Glycine soja sterols, Glycolipids, Lecithin, Linolenic acid, Hyaluronic acid, Tripeptide-29, Sodium chondroitin sulfate, Ethyl linoleate, Ethyl linolenate, Ethyl oleate, Arachidyl propionate, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopherol, Pelargonium graveolens leaf oil, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool
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Product summary
Based on the ingredients included, "Zelens - POWER D Mini Oil" works well for moisturizing the skin. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Hyaluronic acid, saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and sodium chondroitin sulfate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Linoleic acid, ethyl linoleate, glycine soja sterols, linolenic acid and caprylic/capric triglyceride in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.15% - 0.55%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (tripeptide-29 0.35% - 0.80%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
- Another helpful ingredient in this moisturizer is Linoleic Acid. It is one of the fatty acids naturally present in skin. It is part of the skin barrier. Preliminary research shows that it might be able to reduce clogged pores.
Irritation risk
We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 45.00$ in the United States, for 78.80CA$ in Canada and for 45.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.
- 1Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
- 2Content of fatty acids in corn (Zea mays L.) oil from Ecuadorresearchgate.net
- 3
- 4
- 5
- 6Off-Label Uses of Topical Vitamin D in Dermatology: A Systematic Reviewjournals.sagepub.com
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