Yon-Ka Paris Skincare Creme 93

Yon-Ka Paris Skincare Creme 93

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Smooth and fast-absorbing, this regulating moisturizer, with the aroma of ylang-ylang, restores and preserves the balance of normal to combination skin.”
Source: Skinstore

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: beeswax, cetyl alcohol.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~2.2–2.6%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~3.9–4.7%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~2.4–3%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~5.2–6.4%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)2%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)2%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains retinyl palmitate. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.3–0.55%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)2%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
15 strong irritants: Lavandula angustifolia oil, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil + 13 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.95–1.15%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.7–1.05%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skinHigh~0.6–0.9%est.
Thymus vulgaris oil—High~0.5–0.75%est.
Citrus aurantifolia oil—High~0.5–0.75%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~5.2–6.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.4–0.6%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium2%
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Tea-stearate—2/5~3.2–3.9%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~2.4–3%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Olea europaea fruit oil~5.2–6.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Cetyl alcohol~3.9–4.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Tea-stearate~3.2–3.9%
Comedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing
More about Tea-stearate
Glyceryl stearate se~2.4–3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Beeswax~2.2–2.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Beeswax
Glyceryl myristate~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Glyceryl myristate
Peg-6 stearate~1.4–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-6 stearate
Peg-6 oleate~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-6 oleate
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.95–1.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.7–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Has anti-bacterial properties and might help neutralize free radicals on the surface of the skin

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil
Cupressus sempervirens oil~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Thymus vulgaris oil~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Peg-35 castor oil~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-35 castor oil
Citrus aurantifolia oil~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Sclerotium gum~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Tocopheryl acetate~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate2%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Retinyl palmitate~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemishExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Phenoxyethanol~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Citric acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Limonene~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Geraniol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Citronellol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Citral~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Farnesol~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Benzyl salicylate~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Ingredient list view

Water, Olea europaea fruit oil, Cetyl alcohol, Tea-stearate, Glyceryl stearate se, Beeswax, Glyceryl myristate, Peg-6 stearate, Peg-6 oleate, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf oil, Cupressus sempervirens oil, Thymus vulgaris oil, Peg-35 castor oil, Citrus aurantifolia oil, Cananga odorata flower oil, Sclerotium gum, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Retinyl palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Citric acid, Limonene, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Benzyl benzoate, Citral, Farnesol, Benzyl salicylate

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 13 studies and safety reviews.

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Yon-Ka Paris Skincare Creme 93
Yon-Ka Paris SkincareCreme 93

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