Truly

Doll Skin Face Cream

Name: Truly - Doll Skin Face Cream
Brand: Truly

Efficacy 37/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

6 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera oil, algae extract.

ALGAE EXTRACTRole: HeroPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.1–0.3%

COCOS NUCIFERA OILRole: Key activeAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~4.6–7%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–3.6%

HYALURONIC ACIDRole: Under-dosedOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.05–0.2%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Key activePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–1.1%

VITIS VINIFERA SEED OILRole: Key activeA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~4.1–6.2%

Anti-aging

3 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Weak evidence

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

TOCOPHEROLRole: Key activePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–1.1%

Irritancy

8 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 8 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Hamamelis virginiana extractA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~1.5–2.2%est.

Lonicera japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.9%est.

Lonicera caprifolium flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.8%est.

Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.15–0.65%est.

Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesLow~4.1–6.2%est.

Beta vulgaris root extractA plant extract that might have some antioxidant properties, but mostly used in cosmetics for its colorLow~1.2–1.7%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineLow~0.45–1%est.

GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsLow~0.1–0.45%est.

Comedogenic

Cocos nucifera oil ~4.6–7% — rinse-off or low %

Some risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenicHigh~4.6–7%est.

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yetHigh~0.1–0.3%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels