The Perfect V VV Intensive Cream

The Perfect V VV Intensive Cream

Efficacy25/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Arginine, Caprylic/capric triglyceride + 8 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“VV Intensive Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~3.3–4%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.6–5.6%
MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1–1.2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.5–3.1%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~4.4–5.3%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~1.3–1.6%
Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
Alaria esculenta extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.3–0.55%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.75–1.15%
Evens skin tone
Zinc gluconate, Salicylic acid + 1 more
Weak evidence
What the product description says
“It promotes a more even skintone and texture.”
Source: Bluemercury

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.75–1.15%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
Salicylic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.4–0.6%
Exfoliation
Zinc gluconate, Salicylic acid
Weak evidence
What the product description says
“It gently exfoliates and works to alleviate in-grown hair and red bumps while L-arginine, an essential amino acid, uses its healing properties and regenerates skin cells.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Salicylic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~0.4–0.6%
Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Alcohol denat.
Medium risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.55–0.85%est.
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.4–0.6%est.
Sambucus nigra flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Aesculus hippocastanum seed extractPlant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.6–5.6%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~1.3–1.6%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.75–1.15%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
CaffeineMight be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyesMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lackingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Rosa canina fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lackingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Dicaprylyl carbonate~4.4–5.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.6–5.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Arginine~3.3–4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Glycerin~2.5–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Silica~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Carbomer~1.5–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Rosa canina fruit oil~1.3–1.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Mannitol~1–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.75–1.15%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Polysorbate 80~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polysorbate 80
Alcohol denat.~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Ammonium glycyrrhizate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Bisabolol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Salicylic acid~0.4–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Lecithin~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Avena strigosa seed extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Alaria esculenta extract~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Caffeine~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
De-puffingAnti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals. Can have a dehydration effect that might somewhat decrease the look of puffy eyes

More about Caffeine
Rubus chamaemorus fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Zinc gluconate~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliationEvens skin tone

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate
Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its efficacy in skin is lacking

More about Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract
Rosa canina fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lacking

More about Rosa canina fruit extract
Sambucus nigra flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Sambucus nigra flower extract
Vaccinium vitis-idaea leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Plant extract. Might have some anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract
Soy isoflavones~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Hippophae rhamnoides seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Lepidium sativum sprout extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Citric acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ci 77891~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Titanium dioxide~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Ci 77491~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating

More about Ci 77491
Iron oxides~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ingredient list view

Water, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Arginine, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Silica, Carbomer, Rosa canina fruit oil, Mannitol, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Polysorbate 80, Alcohol denat., Ammonium glycyrrhizate, Bisabolol, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Salicylic acid, Lecithin, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Avena strigosa seed extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Alaria esculenta extract, Caffeine, Rubus chamaemorus fruit extract, Zinc gluconate, Vaccinium myrtillus fruit extract, Rosa canina fruit extract, Sambucus nigra flower extract, Vaccinium vitis-idaea leaf extract, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Aesculus hippocastanum seed extract, Soy isoflavones, Hippophae rhamnoides seed oil, Lepidium sativum sprout extract, Citric acid, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77491, Iron oxides

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Bluemercury
$48.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
The Perfect VVV Intensive CreamYOUR PRODUCTGrahams NaturalKP Smoothing CreamVotarySensitive Resurfacing PeelBeautycounterCountermatch Recovery Sleeping Cream
Match—77%76%75%
Price$48.00$23.99−$24.01$22046.98+$21998.98$62.00+$14.00
Shared key ingredients—3 of 125 of 124 of 12
Key difference—NiacinamideLactic AcidBetaine
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

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The Perfect V VV Intensive Cream
The Perfect VVV Intensive Cream

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