The INKEY List CA Peptide Moisturiser

Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
10 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“A fast-absorbing, peptide moisturizer for dry skin”
Source: Inkey List CA

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, c12-15 alkyl benzoate.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-37

Pentapeptide-48Key activeEffect: HighA type of peptide, sold under the brand name Royal Epigen P5. It consists five different amino-acids: arginine, glutamic acid, leucine, serine and threonine. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have anti-aging benefits. One of the manufacturers discloses that creation of this peptide was inspired by a protein found in royal jelly. There is no evidence that this is in any way relevant to this ingredient's benefit for human skin. There are no clinical trials available for this ingredient. There is also no lab tests methodology and results disclosed for it. It is not clear if this peptide has an actual anti-aging or would healing properties when applied topically to human skin. The ingredient manufacturer recommends to include it in formulations at 2-3%.~0.05–0.2%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.4–2.2%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~6.1–9.2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.6–5.4%
Acetyl hexapeptide-37HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.3%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~1.8–2.7%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.2–3.2%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~2.9–4.3%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.3–2%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.5–1.15%
Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“helps reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles”
Source: Inkey List CA

This product contains acetyl hexapeptide-37. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Acetyl hexapeptide-37Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.3%
Pentapeptide-48Effect: LowA type of peptide, sold under the brand name Royal Epigen P5. It consists five different amino-acids: arginine, glutamic acid, leucine, serine and threonine. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have anti-aging benefits. One of the manufacturers discloses that creation of this peptide was inspired by a protein found in royal jelly. There is no evidence that this is in any way relevant to this ingredient's benefit for human skin. There are no clinical trials available for this ingredient. There is also no lab tests methodology and results disclosed for it. It is not clear if this peptide has an actual anti-aging or would healing properties when applied topically to human skin. The ingredient manufacturer recommends to include it in formulations at 2-3%.~0.05–0.2%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.5–1.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 7 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–1%est.
Phenethyl alcoholA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6.1–9.2%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.6%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.5–1.15%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.2–3.2%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~1.8–2.7%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6.1–9.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~3.6–5.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~2.9–4.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Cetearyl alcohol~2.2–3.2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate se~1.8–2.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Betaine~1.4–2.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Butylene glycol~1.3–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl alcohol~0.5–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Carbomer~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.5–1.15%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.45–1.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Sodium hydroxide~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium gluconate~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Dehydroacetic acid~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Phenethyl alcohol~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Phenethyl alcohol
Acetyl hexapeptide-37~0.05–0.3%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-37
Maltodextrin~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Pentapeptide-48~0.05–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide, sold under the brand name Royal Epigen P5. It consists five different amino-acids: arginine, glutamic acid, leucine, serine and threonine. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have anti-aging benefits. One of the manufacturers discloses that creation of this peptide was inspired by a protein found in royal jelly. There is no evidence that this is in any way relevant to this ingredient's benefit for human skin. There are no clinical trials available for this ingredient. There is also no lab tests methodology and results disclosed for it. It is not clear if this peptide has an actual anti-aging or would healing properties when applied topically to human skin. The ingredient manufacturer recommends to include it in formulations at 2-3%.

More about Pentapeptide-48
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate se, Betaine, Butylene glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl alcohol, Carbomer, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Sodium hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium gluconate, Tocopheryl acetate, Dehydroacetic acid, Hydrogenated lecithin, Phenethyl alcohol, Acetyl hexapeptide-37, Maltodextrin, Pentapeptide-48

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "The INKEY List CA - Peptide Moisturiser" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. The INKEY List CA - Peptide Moisturiser ticks this box. Betaine, glycerin and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Caprylic/capric triglyceride, c12-15 alkyl benzoate and cetearyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-37 0.05% - 0.30%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

What our users say

Based on 1 review 0% recommend this product
  • When it comes to comedogenicity, the reviewer found that it does not clog pores.
Our users describe the finish of this product as dewy, They find the product's texture to be light - heavy and In terms of the smell, our users report that no smell - light fragrance.

About the brand

According to Cruelty-Free Kitty "The INKEY List CA" is cruelty free and so is its parent company.

Price

The product retails for 18.99CA$ in Canada, from 12.40£ up to 16.00£ in the United Kingdom and from 14.99$ up to 18.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 5 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
    The Power of Royalactinmibellebiochemistry.com
  5. 5
    RoyalEpigen P5cosmeticinnovation.com.br
The INKEY List CA Peptide Moisturiser
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