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The INKEY List CA Blemish Clearing Moisturiser
The INKEY List CA

The INKEY List CA Blemish Clearing Moisturiser

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Evens skin tone
Retinol
Works well
What the product description says
“The addition of STAY-C®50, a stable form of Vitamin C to help even out skin tone and 3% Sulfur to visibly reduce blemishes.”
Source: Inkey List UK

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.5%
Anti-blemish
Retinol, Pistacia lentiscus gum + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Blemish Clearing Moisturiser”
Source: Inkey List UK

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.5%
Pistacia lentiscus gumEffect: LowA tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.1–0.35%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~1.8–2.8%
Moisturizing
Panthenol, Glycerin + 12 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Blemish Clearing Moisturiser”
Source: Inkey List UK

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.75%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–6.9%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.6–3.9%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.3–2%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~1–1.5%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.45%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.05–0.15%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~3.4–5.2%
Arachidyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~1.6–2.3%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.55–1.25%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.15–0.55%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.05–0.25%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.15%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Retinol, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate + 1 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.5%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~1.8–2.8%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.15%
Exfoliation
Side benefit · Retinol
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.5%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Retinol, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.5%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~1.8–2.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.05–0.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Retinol
Medium risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
Pistacia lentiscus gumA tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lackingHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~2.6–3.9%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~1.8–2.8%est.
Acacia senegal gumHelps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product textureMedium~0.45–1%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.55%est.
Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~1–1.5%est.
Alternatives
The closest match we found
Vitamin C Moisturizer
Derma E Vitamin C Moisturizer
Closest match92% match
$17.50
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.6–6.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Octyldodecanol~3.4–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.6–3.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~1.8–2.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Arachidyl alcohol~1.6–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Arachidyl alcohol
Pentaerythrityl distearate~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Pentaerythrityl distearate
Squalane~1.3–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Glyceryl stearate se~1–1.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Citronellyl methylcrotonate~0.6–1.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Citronellyl methylcrotonate
Behenyl alcohol~0.55–1.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Acacia senegal gum~0.45–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture

More about Acacia senegal gum
Arachidyl glucoside~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Arachidyl glucoside
Phenoxyethanol~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Panthenol~0.2–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Benzyl alcohol~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Citric acid~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Retinol~0.15–0.5%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Pentylene glycol~0.15–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite
Pistacia lentiscus gum~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemish

A tree rasin that could temporarily tighten the skin and might help regulate sebum production, but the research on its effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Pistacia lentiscus gum
Dehydroacetic acid~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Lecithin~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Glucose~0.05–0.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Tocopherol~0.05–0.15%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Glyceryl caprylate~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Arachidyl alcohol, Pentaerythrityl distearate, Squalane, Glyceryl stearate se, Citronellyl methylcrotonate, Behenyl alcohol, Acacia senegal gum, Arachidyl glucoside, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Panthenol, Xanthan gum, Benzyl alcohol, Citric acid, Retinol, Sodium hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene glycol, Sodium metabisulfite, Pistacia lentiscus gum, Dehydroacetic acid, Lecithin, Glucose, Tocopherol, Glyceryl caprylate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
The INKEY List CABlemish Clearing MoisturiserYOUR PRODUCTDerma EVitamin C MoisturizerPaula's choiceClinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming MoisturiserSUNGBOON EDITORDeep Collagen Retinol Power Boosting Capsule Cream for Fine Lines, Wrinkles & Firming
Match—92%82%82%
Price—$17.50$50.40$32.00
Shared key ingredients—5 of 75 of 76 of 7
Key difference—NiacinamideAscorbyl GlucosideAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgarisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsionssciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmeticseuropepmc.org
  5. 5
    Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphatekarger.com
  6. 6
    Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
The INKEY List CA Blemish Clearing Moisturiser
The INKEY List CABlemish Clearing Moisturiser
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