THE FACE SHOP

THE FACE SHOP Advanced Cica Hydro Cream

Name: THE FACE SHOP - Advanced Cica Hydro Cream
Brand: THE FACE SHOP

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

20 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Advanced Cica Hydro Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, jojoba esters.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, panthenol

Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.15–0.6%

MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.35–0.8%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.4–0.9%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.75%

Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.75%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.2–0.75%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–5.7%

Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.55%

Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~1.3–1.9%

Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.55%

Polyglyceryl-10 stearateEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.5%

Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~1.3–2%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.35–0.8%

Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~3.7–5.5%

Tridecyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.65%

Tridecyl trimellitate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.55%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.85–1.3%

Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprateUnder-dosedEffect: Medium~0.1–0.5%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.35–0.8%

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.75%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.45%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains centella asiatica leaf extract, madecassoside. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.35–0.8%

Centella asiatica leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.2–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

9 strong irritants: Cinnamomum camphora bark oil, Litsea cubeba fruit oil + 7 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Cinnamomum camphora bark oil—High~0.1–0.4%est.

Litsea cubeba fruit oilAn essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.3%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.1–0.3%est.

Origanum majorana leaf oil—High~0.05–0.3%est.

Cymbopogon martini oilAromatic plant oil used in cosmetics as a fragrance. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.2%est.

Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil—High~0.05–0.2%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.01–0.1%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.05%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.55–1.3%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.85–1.3%est.

MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.35–0.8%est.

Centella asiatica leaf extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.Medium~0.2–0.75%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.7%est.

Tridecyl stearateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

Tridecyl trimellitateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.15–0.6%est.

Polyglyceryl-10 stearateHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.1–0.5%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.15–0.55%est.

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Ingredients

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Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~3.8–5.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Cyclohexasiloxane~3.7–5.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane

Propane~2.7–4.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Propane

Polyglyceryl-4 caprate~2–3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Polyglyceryl-4 caprate

1,2-hexanediol~0.55–1.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Hydrogenated polydecene~1.3–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene

Cetyl palmitate~1.3–1.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate

Hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters~1–1.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.85–1.3%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Sorbitan stearate~0.5–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate

Panthenol~0.4–0.9%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Madecassoside~0.35–0.8%

Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside

Sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed acid

Not recognized

Centella asiatica leaf extract~0.2–0.75%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

More about Centella asiatica leaf extract

Beta-glucan~0.2–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Isohexadecane~0.35–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Squalane~0.2–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Tridecyl stearate~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tridecyl stearate

Butylene glycol~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Tridecyl trimellitate~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tridecyl trimellitate

Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.15–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil

Jojoba esters~0.15–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

Polyglyceryl-10 stearate~0.1–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 stearate

Tromethamine~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate~0.1–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

More about Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate

Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables~0.15–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables

Trisodium edta~0.1–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps preserve product formulations

More about Trisodium edta

Tocopherol~0.1–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Cinnamomum camphora bark oil~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Cinnamomum camphora bark oil

Litsea cubeba fruit oil~0.1–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

An essential oil with a lemon-like smell that is extracted from a fruit grown in Asia. Used as a fragrance

More about Litsea cubeba fruit oil

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.1–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Origanum majorana leaf oil~0.05–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Origanum majorana leaf oil

Cymbopogon martini oil~0.05–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Aromatic plant oil used in cosmetics as a fragrance. A likely irritant

More about Cymbopogon martini oil

Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil~0.05–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil

Citral~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Limonene~0.01–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Linalool~0.01–0.05%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Propane, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, 1,2-hexanediol, Hydrogenated polydecene, Cetyl palmitate, Hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Sorbitan stearate, Panthenol, Madecassoside, Sodium hyaluronate, Unknown, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Beta-glucan, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Isohexadecane, Squalane, Tridecyl stearate, Butylene glycol, Tridecyl trimellitate, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Jojoba esters, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Tromethamine, Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, Hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables, Trisodium edta, Tocopherol, Cinnamomum camphora bark oil, Litsea cubeba fruit oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Origanum majorana leaf oil, Cymbopogon martini oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis flower oil, Citral, Limonene, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	THE FACE SHOPAdvanced Cica Hydro CreamYOUR PRODUCT	MuldreamVegan Green Mild Intense Facial Cream	SCINICPinktamin Tone-Up Cream	QUICKFXCeraboost Enriched Shield Cream
Match	—	62%	62%	62%
Price	—	$24.13	$17.70	—
Shared key ingredients	—	6 of 9	6 of 9	6 of 9
Key difference	—	Adenosine	Niacinamide	Niacinamide
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "THE FACE SHOP - Advanced Cica Hydro Cream" works well for improving skin hydration As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (panthenol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Jojoba esters, squalane, cetyl palmitate, hydrogenated olive oil unsaponifiables and hydrogenated vegetable oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.35% - 0.80% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 0.40% - 0.90% concentration. In this concentration, Panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e and dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.