What's In My Jar
THANN Shiso Facial Serum
THANN

THANN Shiso Facial Serum

Efficacy50/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Butyrospermum parkii butter, Centella asiatica extract
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Restore elasticity and enhance your natural radiance with THANN's lightweight Shiso Facial Serum that is powered by centella extract to stimulate collagen production, fight against premature aging, and improve skin elasticity.”
Source: Ulta

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - butyrospermum parkii butter - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.3–2%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.55%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin + 9 more
Works

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~3.9–5.9%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.2–3.3%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.6–2.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.3–2%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.1–1.6%
Isopropyl myristateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic~0.4–0.95%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~5.9–8.8%
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~2.9–4.3%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~1.7–2.6%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.35–0.85%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Alcohol, Rosa damascena extract — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 7 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.05–0.3%est.
Polyaminopropyl biguanideA preservative. There seem to be an increasing number of cases of allergic reactions to itHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~1.7–2.6%est.
EthoxydiglycolHelps to improve the product consistencyMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.15–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.3–2%est.
Isopropyl myristateAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.4–0.95%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butylene glycol~5.9–8.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Cyclopentasiloxane~3.9–5.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate~2.9–4.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Cetearyl ethylhexanoate
Glycerin~2.2–3.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Peg-8~1.7–2.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Squalane~1.6–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.3–2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Dimethicone~1.1–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Quaternium-90 bentonite~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Quaternium-90 bentonite
Isopropyl myristate~0.4–0.95%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic

More about Isopropyl myristate
Glyceryl stearate~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Ethoxydiglycol~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to improve the product consistency

More about Ethoxydiglycol
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Alcohol~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Peg-100 stearate~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Rosa damascena extract~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.15–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Polyaminopropyl biguanide~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. There seem to be an increasing number of cases of allergic reactions to it

More about Polyaminopropyl biguanide
Rosa damascena extract~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Butylene glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Peg-8, Squalane, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Dimethicone, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Quaternium-90 bentonite, Isopropyl myristate, Glyceryl stearate, Ethoxydiglycol, Chlorphenesin, Alcohol, Peg-100 stearate, Rosa damascena extract, Centella asiatica extract, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, Rosa damascena extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
THANNShiso Facial SerumYOUR PRODUCTFormulystAnti-Aging ConcentratebioClarityRestore Antioxidant Multi-Benefit SerumCliniqueSmart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum
Match—44%41%41%
Price———$71.27
Shared key ingredients—4 of 74 of 73 of 7
Key difference—Alpha-ArbutinNiacinamideHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Irritancy High Low Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 11 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  3. 3
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  4. 4
    Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
  5. 5
    Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
THANN Shiso Facial Serum
THANNShiso Facial Serum
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