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Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Mild
Skinfood

Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Mild

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Sucrose, Beta-glucan + 12 more
Works
What the product description says
“A hypollergenic toning treatment serum that combines 20% black sugar, refined rice wine, and figs to smooth and hydrate skin for a bright complexion.”
Source: Skinfood

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": sodium hyaluronate, sodium pca.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

SucroseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion~0.75–1.1%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.7%
Tamarindus indica seed gumKey activeEffect: MediumHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin~0.35–0.65%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.4%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Rice ferment filtrateKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.4%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.1–0.25%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.3–2.8%
Portulaca oleracea extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.4%
Galactomyces ferment filtrateUnder-dosedA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores~0.55–0.8%
Pyrus malus fruit extractUnder-dosedCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.3–0.6%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.45%
PanthenolUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%
Exfoliation
No ingredient credited for this claim
Not delivered
What the product description says
“Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Mild”
From product name

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Anti-aging
Side benefit · Adenosine, Beta-glucan + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.4%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.7%
Galactomyces ferment filtrateUnder-dosedA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores~0.55–0.8%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Ficus carica fruit extract, Portulaca oleracea extract + 5 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (ficus carica fruit extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ficus carica fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect~0.65–0.95%
Portulaca oleracea extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.4%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.7%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.4%
Rice ferment filtrateEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.4%
Pyrus malus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content~0.3–0.6%
Galactomyces ferment filtrateUnder-dosedA yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores~0.55–0.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Rosa damascena extract, Citrus limon fruit extract + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~7.4–9%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.65%est.
Citrus limon fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Carica papaya fruit extract—High~0.25–0.5%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~1.6–1.9%est.
Portulaca oleracea extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.1–1.4%est.
Ficus carica fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectMedium~0.65–0.95%est.
Tamarindus indica seed gumHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skinMedium~0.35–0.65%est.
Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
No.3 Bifida Bakuchiol Zero Pore Serum
numbuzin No.3 Bifida Bakuchiol Zero Pore Serum
Higher efficacy · 100/10058% match
$17.81
Rose PDRN Soothing Serum
haruharu US Rose PDRN Soothing Serum
Higher efficacy · 100/10054% match
$13.31
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Rosa damascena extract~7.4–9%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Lac~4–4.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps form a film on the surface of the skin and disperse other ingredients (like colorants) in cosmetics. Lac is a resinous substance secreted by parasite insects living on trees

More about Lac
Propanediol~3–3.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Butylene glycol~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Dipropylene glycol~1.8–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Methylpropanediol~1.6–1.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol
Opuntia ficus-indica stem extract~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Opuntia ficus-indica stem extract
Portulaca oleracea extract~1.1–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Portulaca oleracea extract
Sucrose~0.75–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In crystal form, it can work as a gentle exfoliant, gentler than the salt scrub. Helps stabilize the emulsion

More about Sucrose
Ficus carica fruit extract~0.65–0.95%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

More about Ficus carica fruit extract
Galactomyces ferment filtrate~0.55–0.8%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationMattifyingAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

A yeast ferment filtrate (also known as Pitera - a trademarked name for the filtrate reserved by the SK-II brand). It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, can help neutralize antioxidants and can be helpful in evening out the skin tone. It might be somewhat helpful in preventing premature skin aging but solid evidence is lacking. A small manufacturer study also shows that, when used in high concentrations, it can help reduce sebum production and help against blocked pores

More about Galactomyces ferment filtrate
Beta-glucan~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Tamarindus indica seed gum~0.35–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish on the skin

More about Tamarindus indica seed gum
Citrus limon fruit extract~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus limon fruit extract
Pyrus malus fruit extract~0.3–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content

More about Pyrus malus fruit extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Carica papaya fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Carica papaya fruit extract
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Adenosine~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Rice ferment filtrate~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Rice ferment filtrate
Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose
Glucose~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Panthenol~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Silica~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Protease~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Protease
Sodium pca~0.1–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca
Molasses~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Molasses
2-hexanol~0.05–0.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about 2-hexanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Caramel~0.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Caramel
Ingredient list view

Water, Rosa damascena extract, Lac, Propanediol, Butylene glycol, Dipropylene glycol, Methylpropanediol, Opuntia ficus-indica stem extract, Portulaca oleracea extract, Sucrose, Ficus carica fruit extract, Galactomyces ferment filtrate, Beta-glucan, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Tamarindus indica seed gum, Citrus limon fruit extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Carica papaya fruit extract, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Rice ferment filtrate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glucose, Sodium hyaluronate, Xanthan gum, Panthenol, Silica, Protease, Sodium pca, Molasses, 2-hexanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caramel

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
SkinfoodBlack Sugar Perfect First Serum The MildYOUR PRODUCTnumbuzinNo.3 Bifida Bakuchiol Zero Pore Serumharuharu USRose PDRN Soothing SerumAPLBGlutathione Niacinamide Ampoule Serum
Match—58%54%54%
Price—$17.81$13.31$11.25
Shared key ingredients—5 of 107 of 104 of 10
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamideNiacinamide
Irritancy High Low Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 27 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Portulaca oleracea (purslane)mdedge.com
  2. 2
    Effects of galactomyces ferment filtrate on epidermal barrier marker caspase-14 in human skin cells.doi.org
  3. 3
    Galactomyces fermentation filtrate prevents T helper 2-mediated reduction of filaggrin in an aryl hydrocarbon receptor-dependent manneronlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    The Effects of Essence-Formed Cosmetic Ingredients Containing the Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate on Skin Improvements in Keratinization, Pores, Sebum Excretion, Brightness and Acnee-ajbc.org
  5. 5
    Antioxidants cinnamaldehyde and Galactomyces fermentation filtrate downregulate senescence marker CDKN2A/p16INK4A via NRF2 activation in keratinocytesjdsjournal.com
  6. 6
    Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate Suppresses Reactive Oxygen Species Generation and Promotes Cellular Redox Balance in Human Melanocytes via Nrf2-ARE Pathwaypdfs.semanticscholar.org
Skinfood Black Sugar Perfect First Serum The Mild
SkinfoodBlack Sugar Perfect First Serum The Mild
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