Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Exfoliation
- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 4
Key actives
Product Summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "Shu Uemura - Ultime8 Sublime Beauty Oil In Cream" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Glycerin and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Paraffinum liquidum, carthamus tinctorius seed oil, glycine soja oil, beeswax and dimethicone in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- Adenosine 0.25% - 0.45% in this moisturizer adds an anti-aging benefit. Adenosine is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical adenosine in low concentrations can help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 163.09CA$ in Canada and from 106.78$ up to 181.89$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Works for
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Formulated with 8 precious oils, patented pro-xylane and lotus leaf extract, it firms and slims face as it diminishes the appearance of fine lines.
Source: Yesstyle
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Exfoliation
This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: capryloyl salicylic acid.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
The silky formula glides on smoothly and absorbs quickly, wrapping skin with moisture all day long.
Source: Yesstyle
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, butylene glycol.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: paraffinum liquidum
An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A sugar-derived compound that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be able to stimulate synthesis of skin's own moisturizing factors, but solid research is lacking. It could be irritating
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
Prevents water loss from the skin surface and thickens the product consistency
Helps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Evens skin tone
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: capryloyl salicylic acid.
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Shu Uemura Ultime8 Sublime Beauty Oil In Cream | Current | $115.00 | |
BIOTHERM BLUE THERAPY ANTI-AGING NIGHT CREAM | 67% | $78.75 | |
L'Oréal Paris Wrinkle Expert 65+ Night Cream Moisturiser | 59% | $4.99 | |
 Lancôme Absolue Rich Cream | 56% | $203.00 | |
 Vichy Neovadiol Perimenopause Plumping Day Cream for Dry Skin | 54% | $25.60 | |
 the SKIN HOUSE Wrinkle Collagen Cream | 53% | $14.90 |
Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl stearate, Unknown, Paraffinum liquidum, Peg-100 stearate, Beeswax, Myristyl myristate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Sorbitan tristearate, Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene glycol, Microcrystalline wax, Octyldodecanol, Paraffin, Capryloyl salicylic acid, Xanthan gum, Chlorphenesin, Isohexadecane, Peg-14m, Acrylic acid, Glycerin, Acrylic acid, Unknown, Polysorbate 80, Stearyl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol, Disodium edta, Linalool, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed linseed extract, Sorbitan oleate, Sodium hydroxide, Geraniol, Squalane, Glycine soja oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Rosa damascena extract, Caramel, Sodium benzoate, Benzyl alcohol, Oleamide, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Lavandula angustifolia extract, Unknown, Citric acid, Parfum
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Final report on the safety assessment of sorbitan caprylate, sorbitan cocoate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan olivate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan sesquistearate, and sorbitan triisostearate
- A Compensating Skin Care Complex Containing Pro-xylane in Menopausal Women: Results from a Multicentre, Evaluator-blinded, Randomized Study
- Synthesis of Pro-XylaneTM: A new biologically active C-glycoside in aqueous media
- First case of contact dermatitis caused by hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol used in an anti-ageing cream
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Cosmetic allergy from myristyl alcohol
- Contact Sensitization to Emulsifying Agents: An Underrated Issue?
- Patch testing with myristyl alcohol
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health