Shu Uemura Ultime8 Sublime Beauty Oil In Cream
Works for
Anti-agingAdenosine, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 1 moreWorks well
“Formulated with 8 precious oils, patented pro-xylane and lotus leaf extract, it firms and slims face as it diminishes the appearance of fine lines.”
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
MoisturizingParaffinum liquidum, Glycerin + 24 moreWorks well
“The silky formula glides on smoothly and absorbs quickly, wrapping skin with moisture all day long.”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: paraffinum liquidum
ExfoliationSide benefit · Capryloyl salicylic acidWorks well
This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: capryloyl salicylic acid.
Evens skin toneSide benefit · Capryloyl salicylic acidMay help
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: capryloyl salicylic acid.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy4 strong irritants: Linalool, Geraniol + 2 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
Comedogenic5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale5 flagged
User reviews
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Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~45–55%
Hydrogenated polyisobutene~5.1–6.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
More about Hydrogenated polyisobuteneGlycerin~4–4.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinButylene glycol~3–3.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
More about Butylene glycolDimethicone~2.4–3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
More about DimethiconeCetyl alcohol~2–2.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
More about Cetyl alcoholGlyceryl stearate~1.7–2.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
More about Glyceryl stearateZea mays germ oil~1.5–1.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
Paraffinum liquidum~1.3–1.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function
More about Paraffinum liquidumPeg-100 stearate~1.1–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
More about Peg-100 stearateBeeswax~0.75–1.15%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen
More about BeeswaxMyristyl myristate~0.65–1%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic
More about Myristyl myristateDimethyl isosorbide~0.5–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
More about Dimethyl isosorbideSorbitan tristearate~0.5–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps oil and water mix together
More about Sorbitan tristearateHydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol~0.45–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- High
A sugar-derived compound that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be able to stimulate synthesis of skin's own moisturizing factors, but solid research is lacking. It could be irritating
More about Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriolPhenoxyethanol~0.45–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolPropylene glycol~0.4–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- High
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
More about Propylene glycolMicrocrystalline wax~0.4–0.65%
Octyldodecanol~0.35–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation
More about OctyldodecanolAcrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps water and oil mix together and create gel-like textures
More about Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymerParaffin~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Prevents water loss from the skin surface and thickens the product consistency
More about ParaffinCapryloyl salicylic acid~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- High
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency
More about Xanthan gumChlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Isohexadecane~0.35–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent
More about IsohexadecanePeg-14m~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency
More about Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerPolysorbate 80~0.3–0.5%
Stearyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps soften the skin
More about Stearyl alcoholMyristyl alcohol~0.3–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- High
Helps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating
More about Myristyl alcoholPentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to increase stability of product formulations
More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamateDisodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Linalool~0.25–0.45%
Adenosine~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
More about AdenosineHydrolyzed linseed extract~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
More about Hydrolyzed linseed extractSorbitan oleate~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
Helps oil and water mix together
More about Sorbitan oleateSodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Geraniol~0.25–0.45%
Squalane~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
More about SqualaneGlycine soja oil~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
More about Glycine soja oilSimmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.3–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oilTocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
More about Tocopheryl acetateCarthamus tinctorius seed oil~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps soften the skin and might help calm down inflammation
More about Carthamus tinctorius seed oilButyrospermum parkii butter~0.3–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
More about Butyrospermum parkii butterCamellia oleifera seed oil~0.25–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An emollient that does not leave a greasy finish
More about Camellia oleifera seed oilNelumbo nucifera leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Caramel~0.2–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.3%
Benzyl alcohol~0.1–0.2%
- Irritation risk
- High
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
More about Benzyl alcohol2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol~0.15–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and slow down the water loss over time
More about 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediolTocopherol~0.15–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
More about TocopherolLavandula hybrida oil~0.2–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- High
Plant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergen
More about Lavandula hybrida oilCitric acid~0.05–0.15%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
More about Citric acidParfum~0.1–0.15%
- Irritation risk
- High
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
More about ParfumIngredient list view
Water, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Dimethicone, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Zea mays germ oil, Unknown, Paraffinum liquidum, Peg-100 stearate, Beeswax, Myristyl myristate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Sorbitan tristearate, Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene glycol, Microcrystalline wax, Octyldodecanol, Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, Paraffin, Capryloyl salicylic acid, Xanthan gum, Chlorphenesin, Isohexadecane, Peg-14m, Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, Polysorbate 80, Stearyl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Disodium edta, Linalool, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed linseed extract, Sorbitan oleate, Sodium hydroxide, Geraniol, Squalane, Glycine soja oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Carthamus tinctorius seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Camellia oleifera seed oil, Nelumbo nucifera leaf extract, Caramel, Sodium benzoate, Benzyl alcohol, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, Tocopherol, Lavandula hybrida oil, Citric acid, Parfum
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| Shu UemuraUltime8 Sublime Beauty Oil In CreamYOUR PRODUCT | BIOTHERMBLUE THERAPY ANTI-AGING NIGHT CREAM | L'Oréal ParisWrinkle Expert 65+ Night Cream Moisturiser | LancômeAbsolue Rich Cream | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 68% | 58% | 55% |
| Price | $193.00 | $84.89−$108.11 | $12.07−$180.93 | $242.00+$49.00 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 9 of 17 | 6 of 17 | 9 of 17 |
| Key difference | — | Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract | Panthenol | Panthenol |
| Irritancy | High | Medium | High | High |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | — | Contains drying alcohol |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
More alternatives: Vichy Neovadiol Rose Platinumthe SKIN HOUSE Wrinkle Collagen Cream
Product summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "Shu Uemura - Ultime8 Sublime Beauty Oil In Cream" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Glycerin and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Paraffinum liquidum, carthamus tinctorius seed oil, glycine soja oil, beeswax and dimethicone in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- Adenosine 0.25% - 0.45% in this moisturizer adds an anti-aging benefit. Adenosine is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical adenosine in low concentrations can help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 163.09CA$ in Canada and from 106.78$ up to 181.89$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
- 5A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oilncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 6
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