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SEPHORA COLLECTION Hydrating Cica Express Repair Care Cream
SEPHORA COLLECTION

SEPHORA COLLECTION Hydrating Cica Express Repair Care Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
20 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Hydrating Cica Express Repair Care Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, polyglycerin-3.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.5–0.75%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.2–5.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%
Helianthus annuus seed ceraKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~2.4–2.9%
Helianthus annuus seed waxKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency~0.25–0.45%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.3–0.6%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~3–3.7%
Polyglycerin-3Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.15%
UndecaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps create a non-greasy finish on the skin~0.7–1.05%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.3–0.6%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.7%
Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.95–1.15%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~1.2–1.4%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~1.7–2%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.35%
Cocoglycerides· EmollientEffect: LowHelp soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skin~1.4–1.8%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.35–0.65%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.25–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
12 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 12 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
CocoglyceridesHelp soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skinHigh~1.4–1.8%est.
UndecaneHelps create a non-greasy finish on the skinMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
TridecaneHelps create a dry, non-greasy finish of the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
O-cymen-5-olA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~4.2–5.1%est.
Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.95–1.15%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.5–0.7%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–5.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butyrospermum parkii butter~4.2–5.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Panthenol~3–3.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Propanediol~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Behenyl alcohol~1.7–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Cocoglycerides~1.4–1.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skin

More about Cocoglycerides
Octyldodecanol~1.2–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.95–1.15%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil
Undecane~0.7–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps create a non-greasy finish on the skin

More about Undecane
Oryza sativa starch~0.6–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Oryza sativa starch
Pentaerythrityl distearate~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Pentaerythrityl distearate
Zinc pca~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca
Cetearyl alcohol~0.5–0.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Tridecane~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps create a dry, non-greasy finish of the skin

More about Tridecane
Glyceryl stearate~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Jojoba esters~0.3–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Cetyl alcohol~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Stearyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Centella asiatica extract~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Cetearyl glucoside~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Helianthus annuus seed cera~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Helianthus annuus seed cera
Helianthus annuus seed wax~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency

More about Helianthus annuus seed wax
1,2-hexanediol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
O-cymen-5-ol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about O-cymen-5-ol
Sorbitan isostearate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Tocopherol~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Polyglycerin-3~0.05–0.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglycerin-3
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Panthenol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Propanediol, Behenyl alcohol, Cocoglycerides, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Undecane, Oryza sativa starch, Pentaerythrityl distearate, Zinc pca, Cetearyl alcohol, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Tridecane, Glyceryl stearate, Jojoba esters, Cetyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Chlorphenesin, Centella asiatica extract, Cetearyl glucoside, Xanthan gum, Helianthus annuus seed cera, Helianthus annuus seed wax, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, O-cymen-5-ol, Sorbitan isostearate, Tocopherol, Polyglycerin-3

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
SEPHORA COLLECTIONHydrating Cica Express Repair Care CreamYOUR PRODUCTNeutrogenaUltra Gentle Face and Body Daily Moisturizing CreamCetaphilRedness Relieving Night MoisturizerRosaliqueSoothing Night Cream
Match—54%54%54%
Price—$9.97$9.51$46.26
Shared key ingredients—4 of 104 of 104 of 10
Key difference—Vitamin ENiacinamideUrea
Irritancy Low Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "SEPHORA COLLECTION - Hydrating Cica Express Repair Care Cream" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. SEPHORA COLLECTION - Hydrating Cica Express Repair Care Cream ticks this box. Panthenol, glycerin, polyglycerin-3, zinc pca and caprylyl glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (helianthus annuus seed cera, helianthus annuus seed wax, jojoba esters, butyrospermum parkii butter and helianthus annuus seed oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 3.00% - 3.70% concentration. In this concentration, Panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e and centella asiatica extract

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains actives that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
  3. 3
    Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
  6. 6
    Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
SEPHORA COLLECTION Hydrating Cica Express Repair Care Cream
SEPHORA COLLECTIONHydrating Cica Express Repair Care Cream
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Buy at SephoraCheck priceAmazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.