Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
- Moisturizing
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Key actives
Product Summary
"Sarah Chapman - The Overnight Icon" has a good moisturizing formula.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.15% - 0.60%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide 2 0.20% - 0.75%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
- This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl hexapeptide-12 0.15% - 0.60%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
The perfect gift for any skin care obsessed loved one, this will help awaken your skin's plump, smooth, youthful and rejuvenated glow overnight.A serum-oil elixir that's been (rightfully) lauded with beauty awards for its transformative benefits, now available in a sized-to-try edition.
Source: Cultbeauty
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains palmitoyl hexapeptide-12.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (thioctic acid, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin
Moisturizing
This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: caprylic/capric triglyceride, phenyl trimethicone.
Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide 2, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
A plant oil that due to its high linoleic acid content can help strengthen skin's barrier function and soften its upper layer
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Familiar ingredients such as vitamins C and A brighten skin tone and defy signs of ageing, alongside more advanced technologies, including 'Renovage' (which helps to increase the life span of cells) and 'Dermaxyl' (which boosts collagen via advanced peptide technology).
Source: Cultbeauty
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 50/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
No comedogenic ingredients detected
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Key Actives
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture
A plant oil that due to its high linoleic acid content can help strengthen skin's barrier function and soften its upper layer
Potential irritants
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation
An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin
An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties
A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
A plant oil that due to its high linoleic acid content can help strengthen skin's barrier function and soften its upper layer
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Comedogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comedogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Used to create a thicker product consistency
A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
A plant oil that due to its high linoleic acid content can help strengthen skin's barrier function and soften its upper layer
Used to create a gel-like product texture
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation
An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin
An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties
A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
Ingredient list view
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Di-ppg-2 myreth-10 adipate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer, Peg-4, Phenyl trimethicone, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Crambe abyssinica seed oil, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Cannabis sativa seed oil, Butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer, Tocopheryl linoleate/oleate, Tocopheryl acetate, Hydroxycinnamic acid, Ubiquinone, Tribehenin, Teprenone, Retinyl palmitate, Ceramide 2, Peg-10 phytosterol, Thioctic acid, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Parfum, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Santalum spicata wood oil, Citrus paradisi peel oil, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Cananga odorata flower oil, Rosa damascena flower oil, Unknown, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Linalool, Limonene, Benzyl benzoate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Farnesol, Benzyl cinnamate, Benzyl salicylate, Eugenol, Benzyl alcohol, Citral, Hydroxycitronellal
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy
- Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) seed oil: Analytical and phytochemical characterization of unsaponifiable fraction
- Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) as a Resource for Green Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Styrene and Vinyl-type Styrene Copolymers as Used in Cosmetics
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Fragrance Compound Geraniol Forms Contact Allergens on Air Exposure. Identification and Quantification of Oxidation Products and Effect on Skin Sensitization
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts
- Safety Assessment of Anthemis nobilis– Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Citrus-Derived Peel Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Oxidized citrus oil (R-limonene): A frequent skin sensitizer in Europe
- Air oxidation increases skin irritation from fragrance terpenes