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Sarah Chapman Skinesis Platinum Stem Cell Elixir
Sarah Chapman

Sarah Chapman Skinesis Platinum Stem Cell Elixir

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Anti-aging
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“The skin barrier is supported by botanical omega rich oils while vitamin C radiance boosters and skin brighteners promote a youthful glow.”
Source: Feelunique

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl tetrapeptide-17.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.7%
Acetyl tetrapeptide-17Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.75%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~1.3–1.6%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.5–0.75%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 13 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (glutathione, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - arbutin also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.7%
GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
ArbutinKey activeEffect: MediumBeta-arbutin. Can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and has an anti-oxidant effect when used in high enough concentration. Is less effective compared to alpha-arbutin~0.5–0.75%
Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~2–2.4%
Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extractEffect: LowA plant stem cell extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin~0.5–0.75%
Plantago lanceolata leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.5–0.75%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~28–35%
Triticum vulgare germ oilEffect: LowA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~1–1.2%
Vitis vinifera seed oilEffect: LowA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~5.9–7.2%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~1.3–1.6%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.5–0.75%
Anthemis nobilis flower oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin~0.35–0.65%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.5–0.75%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains glutathione. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: arbutin.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.7%
GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
ArbutinKey activeEffect: MediumBeta-arbutin. Can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and has an anti-oxidant effect when used in high enough concentration. Is less effective compared to alpha-arbutin~0.5–0.75%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~1.3–1.6%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · 21 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, cera alba.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl tetrapeptide-17, linoleic acid

Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~4.4–5.4%
Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.7–1.05%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.5–3.1%
Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.6–0.9%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~28–35%
Triticum vulgare germ oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).~1–1.2%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~5.9–7.2%
Acetyl tetrapeptide-17HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–0.75%
GlutathioneKey activeEffect: HighA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.5–0.7%
Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~2–2.4%
Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumA plant stem cell extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin~0.5–0.75%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~6.3–7.7%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.6–0.9%
Coconut alkanesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin~1.6–2%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.65–0.95%
Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.3–0.55%
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.85%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.75–1.15%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.85%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~1.3–1.6%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.7%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: linoleic acid

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.5–0.7%
Linoleic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.6–0.9%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
23 strong irritants: Alcohol, Parfum + 21 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 39 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.75–1.1%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.7–1.05%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Spilanthes acmella flower extractPlant extract that might hep calm down inflammation in skinHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil—High~0.5–0.75%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil expressed—High~0.45–0.7%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Pelargonium graveolens oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Rosa damascena flower extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.7%est.
Polianthes tuberosa flower extract—High~0.5–0.7%est.
Jasminum officinale flower extractFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Salvia sclarea oil—High~0.45–0.7%est.
Santalum album oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
Anthemis nobilis flower oilAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skinHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Aniba rosaeodora wood oil—High~0.3–0.6%est.
Menthol—High~0.3–0.6%est.
Pogostemon cablin leaf oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oilAn essential oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and sensitizingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~28–35%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~6.3–7.7%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~5.9–7.2%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~1.6–2%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~1.3–1.6%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.75–1.15%est.
Plantago lanceolata leaf extractA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Swertia chirata extractA plant extract that can have an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effect, but evidence of effectiveness is lackingMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
ArbutinBeta-arbutin. Can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and has an anti-oxidant effect when used in high enough concentration. Is less effective compared to alpha-arbutinMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
GlutathioneA peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~4.4–5.4%est.
Triticum vulgare germ oilA good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).3/5~1–1.2%est.
Coconut alkanesAn emollient that helps soften the skin2/5~1.6–2%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~28–35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~6.3–7.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Vitis vinifera seed oil~5.9–7.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Cocos nucifera oil~4.4–5.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Water~3.2–3.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~2.5–3.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Borago officinalis seed oil~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil
Coconut alkanes~1.6–2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Coconut alkanes
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~1.3–1.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Maltodextrin~1.3–1.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Triticum vulgare germ oil~1–1.2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A good emoillient. Contains vitamin E which can help neutralise free radicals, however the oil is unstable. Avoid if you have gluten or wheat sensitivity (including food allergies).

More about Triticum vulgare germ oil
Alcohol~0.75–1.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Parfum~0.7–1.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.75–1.15%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Brassica campestris/aleurites fordi oil copolymer~0.95–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Brassica campestris/aleurites fordi oil copolymer
Butylene glycol~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Polyglyceryl-4 laurate/sebacate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Polyglyceryl-4 laurate/sebacate
Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate/caprate~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate/caprate
Polysorbate 20~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant stem cell extract that might help neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation in skin

More about Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract
Plantago lanceolata leaf extract~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Plantago lanceolata leaf extract
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin
Lecithin~0.6–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Onopordum acanthium flower/leaf/stem extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Onopordum acanthium flower/leaf/stem extract
Retinol~0.5–0.7%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-oxidationMattifying

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Swertia chirata extract~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can have an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory effect, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking

More about Swertia chirata extract
Spilanthes acmella flower extract~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that might hep calm down inflammation in skin

More about Spilanthes acmella flower extract
Xanthan gum~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Arbutin~0.5–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-oxidation

Beta-arbutin. Can help to reduce hyperpigmentation and has an anti-oxidant effect when used in high enough concentration. Is less effective compared to alpha-arbutin

More about Arbutin
Linolenic
Not recognized
Linoleic acid~0.6–0.9%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Tocopheryl acetate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Glutathione~0.5–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A peptide that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and reduce melanin production resulting in skin lightening effect and reduction in hyperpigmentation. It can also help attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutathione
Myristoyl tripeptide-31~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Myristoyl tripeptide-31
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Acetyl tetrapeptide-17~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl tetrapeptide-17
Colloidal platinum~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Colloidal platinum
Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil expressed~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil expressed
Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil
Cedrus atlantica bark oil~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cedrus atlantica bark oil
Cedrus atlantica bark extract~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cedrus atlantica bark extract
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Pelargonium graveolens oil~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Pelargonium graveolens oil
Vetiveria zizanoides root oil~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vetiveria zizanoides root oil
Apium graveolens seed oil~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Apium graveolens seed oil
Rosa damascena flower extract~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower extract
Polianthes tuberosa flower extract~0.5–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Polianthes tuberosa flower extract
Jasminum officinale flower extract~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Jasminum officinale flower extract
Styrax tonkinensis resin extract~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Styrax tonkinensis resin extract
Bulnesia sarmientoi wood oil~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Bulnesia sarmientoi wood oil
Salvia sclarea oil~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Salvia sclarea oil
Santalum album oil~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album oil
Cera alba~0.7–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Beeswax~0.5–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Beeswax
Anthemis nobilis flower oil~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Anthemis nobilis flower oil
Viola odorata leaf extract~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Viola odorata leaf extract
Aniba rosaeodora wood oil~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Aniba rosaeodora wood oil
Juniperus mexicana wood oil~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Juniperus mexicana wood oil
Menthol~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Menthol
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil
Pogostemon cablin leaf oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Pogostemon cablin leaf oil
Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and sensitizing

More about Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil
Cupressus funebris wood oil~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Cupressus funebris wood oil
Benzyl salicylate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Hydroxycitronellal~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal
Limonene~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Ingredient list view

Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Cocos nucifera oil, Water, Glycerin, Borago officinalis seed oil, Coconut alkanes, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Maltodextrin, Triticum vulgare germ oil, Alcohol, Parfum, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Brassica campestris/aleurites fordi oil copolymer, Butylene glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 laurate/sebacate, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate/caprate, Polysorbate 20, Leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract, Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Lecithin, Onopordum acanthium flower/leaf/stem extract, Retinol, Swertia chirata extract, Spilanthes acmella flower extract, Xanthan gum, Arbutin, Unknown, Linoleic acid, Tocopheryl acetate, Glutathione, Myristoyl tripeptide-31, Ascorbyl palmitate, Acetyl tetrapeptide-17, Colloidal platinum, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil expressed, Myrocarpus fastigiatus oil, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Cedrus atlantica bark extract, Cananga odorata flower oil, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Vetiveria zizanoides root oil, Apium graveolens seed oil, Rosa damascena flower extract, Polianthes tuberosa flower extract, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Styrax tonkinensis resin extract, Bulnesia sarmientoi wood oil, Salvia sclarea oil, Santalum album oil, Cera alba, Beeswax, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Viola odorata leaf extract, Aniba rosaeodora wood oil, Juniperus mexicana wood oil, Menthol, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Pogostemon cablin leaf oil, Eugenia caryophyllus leaf oil, Cupressus funebris wood oil, Benzyl salicylate, Citronellol, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Linalool

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Sarah ChapmanSkinesis Platinum Stem Cell ElixirYOUR PRODUCTNaturiumRetinol Cream 2.5%HydroPeptideTravel-Size Nimni CreamZO Skin HealthIntense Eye Creme
Match—57%57%57%
Price$200.95$15.99−$184.96$45.00−$155.95$100.63−$100.32
Shared key ingredients—4 of 164 of 164 of 16
Key difference—Retinyl PalmitateCeramide NpAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Product summary

"Sarah Chapman - Skinesis Platinum Stem Cell Elixir" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Sarah Chapman - Skinesis Platinum Stem Cell Elixir ticks this box. Humectants in this product (glycerin, leontopodium alpinum callus culture extract and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Linoleic acid, borago officinalis seed oil, prunus armeniaca kernel oil, triticum vulgare germ oil and vitis vinifera seed oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.50% - 0.70%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
  • This moistruizer also contains peptides (acetyl tetrapeptide-17 0.50% - 0.75%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
  • Another helpful ingredient in this moisturizer is Linoleic Acid. It is one of the fatty acids naturally present in skin. It is part of the skin barrier. Preliminary research shows that it might be able to reduce clogged pores.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 152.00£ up to 173.28£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 28 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
  2. 2
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Dermatology News - Commentary: Borage Seed Oilmdedge.com
  4. 4
    Undershirts coated with borage oil alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis in childrenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamicssciencedirect.com
  6. 6
    Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysisscielo.br
Sarah Chapman Skinesis Platinum Stem Cell Elixir
Sarah ChapmanSkinesis Platinum Stem Cell Elixir
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