Santa Maria Novella

Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Rose Cream

Name: Santa Maria Novella - Acqua di Rose Cream
Brand: Santa Maria Novella

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Niacinamide, Urea + 12 more

Works well

What the product description says

“Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella introduces Acqua di Rose Cream: a fresh, fast-absorbing moisturizing cream formulated with damascus rose extract to provide the skin with intense hydration and nourishment.”

Source: SmallFlower

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: fructose, glycine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, coco-caprylate/caprate.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, urea

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~3.5–5.3%

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.15–0.55%

Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~2.1–3.2%

Hydrogenated palm oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1–1.5%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.45–1.05%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.4–0.95%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.4–0.95%

FructoseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.5%

GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.1–0.4%

InositolKey active· HumectantEffect: High~0.1–0.4%

Rosa damascena flower water· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating~25–37%

Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~5–7.5%

C15-19 alkaneEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~4.7–7.1%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.35%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide

Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Lactic acid

Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~3.5–5.3%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Lactic acid

Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

4 strong irritants: Rosa damascena flower water, Geraniol + 2 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Rosa damascena flower waterUsed to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritatingHigh~25–37%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.5–1%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.7%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.

EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.15%est.

CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulationMedium~1.4–2.1%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.45–1.05%est.

HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.4–0.9%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.1–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation3/5~1.4–2.1%est.

Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

Maruderm Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizer Face & Body Cream

Cheaper94% match

$21.99

Perricone MD High Potency Classics Hyaluronic Intensive Moisturiser

Cheaper86% match

$52.93

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Rosa damascena flower water~25–37%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower water

Glyceryl stearate citrate~5–7.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate

C15-19 alkane~4.7–7.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about C15-19 alkane

Niacinamide~3.5–5.3%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Propanediol~2.6–3.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Coco-caprylate/caprate~2.1–3.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate

Xanthan gum~1.6–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Carrageenan~1.4–2.1%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation

More about Carrageenan

Hydrogenated rapeseed oil~1.2–1.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrogenated rapeseed oil

Hydrogenated palm oil~1–1.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated palm oil

Water~0.55–1.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Benzyl alcohol~0.5–1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol

Sodium lactate~0.45–1.05%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Sodium pca~0.4–0.95%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Hydroxyacetophenone~0.4–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.4–0.95%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Potassium sorbate~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Geraniol~0.15–0.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Urea~0.15–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

Fructose~0.15–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructose

Inositol~0.1–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Inositol

Glycine~0.1–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Lactic acid~0.1–0.35%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Citronellol~0.05–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Eugenol~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol

Alkanna tinctoria root extract~0.05–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Alkanna tinctoria root extract

Ingredient list view

Rosa damascena flower water, Glyceryl stearate citrate, C15-19 alkane, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Xanthan gum, Carrageenan, Hydrogenated rapeseed oil, Hydrogenated palm oil, Water, Benzyl alcohol, Sodium lactate, Sodium pca, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium benzoate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Potassium sorbate, Geraniol, Urea, Fructose, Inositol, Glycine, Lactic acid, Citronellol, Eugenol, Alkanna tinctoria root extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Santa Maria NovellaAcqua di Rose CreamYOUR PRODUCT	MarudermHyaluronic Acid Moisturizer Face & Body Cream	Perricone MDHigh Potency Classics Hyaluronic Intensive Moisturiser	CosmetocriticoUltra Lipid Repair
Match	—	94%	86%	85%
Price	$197.80	$21.99−$175.81	$52.93−$144.87	—
Shared key ingredients	—	7 of 8	3 of 8	5 of 8
Key difference	—	Panthenol	Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate	Lactic Acid
Irritancy	High	Low	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Santa Maria Novella - Acqua di Rose Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Humectants in this product (urea, fructose, glycine, inositol and sodium lactate) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (helianthus annuus seed oil, coco-caprylate/caprate, hydrogenated palm oil and glyceryl stearate citrate) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

We love that this moisturizer contains a good concentration of niacinamide 3.50% - 5.30%. Niacinamide is a perfect active in a moistruizer because it helps calm down inflamation in skin and support the skin barrier. More than that, it is helpful for most common skin concerns: it helps regulat oil production, help reduce acne and clogged pores, improve skin tone and prevent pigmentation marks. It also helps fight photodamage.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: lactic acid

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.