What's In My Jar
Retrouvé Voyage Nutrient Face Serum
Retrouvé

Retrouvé Voyage Nutrient Face Serum

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Niacinamide + 14 more
Works well
What the product description says
“A vitamin-infused hydrating blend, Nutrient Face Serum provides light moisturization and is designed for most skin types.”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ng, niacinamide, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~1.6–2%
NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.3–1.6%
Ceramide ngHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.5–0.7%
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.65%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.1%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.7–3.3%
7-dehydrocholesterolKey activeEffect: HighPro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasis~0.7–1.05%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.65–1%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~0.5–0.75%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.35–0.65%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~2–2.4%
Tribehenin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.7%
Padina pavonica thallus extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight help to soften the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to have anti-oxidant properties, but evidence in missing~0.35–0.6%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.8–1.2%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.45–0.7%
Triticum vulgare germ extractUnder-dosedPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.3–0.55%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Niacinamide + 3 more
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: punica granatum extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~8.4–10.2%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.3–1.6%
Punica granatum extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effective~3.4–4.2%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~2–2.4%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.05–0.15%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Niacinamide + 4 more
Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide, palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~8.4–10.2%
NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.3–1.6%
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12Key activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.65%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~2–2.4%
UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.65–1%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.05–0.15%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Punica granatum extract + 6 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract, punica granatum extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateKey activeEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~8.4–10.2%
Punica granatum extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effective~3.4–4.2%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~2–2.4%
UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.65–1%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: LowA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~2.1–2.6%
Plantago lanceolata leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.5–0.8%
Padina pavonica thallus extractEffect: Low, below effective doseMight help to soften the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to have anti-oxidant properties, but evidence in missing~0.35–0.6%
Triticum vulgare germ extractEffect: Low, below effective dosePlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance~0.3–0.55%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Niacinamide, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 2 more
May help

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains niacinamide.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.3–1.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~2–2.4%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.8–1.2%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.05–0.15%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Equisetum arvense extract, Commiphora myrrha oil + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Equisetum arvense extractA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Commiphora myrrha oilUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.25%est.
Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.1–0.2%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~8.4–10.2%est.
Punica granatum extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effectiveMedium~3.4–4.2%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~2.1–2.6%est.
7-dehydrocholesterolPro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasisMedium~0.7–1.05%est.
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymerUsed to stabilize product formulationsMedium~0.65–0.95%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.5–0.8%est.
Plantago lanceolata leaf extractA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.5–0.8%est.
Peg-10 phytosterolHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intoleranceMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Padina pavonica thallus extractMight help to soften the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to have anti-oxidant properties, but evidence in missing3/5~0.35–0.6%est.
Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~8.4–10.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Glycerin~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Punica granatum extract~3.4–4.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin and even out the skin tone, but is typically used in products in a concentration that is too low to be effective

More about Punica granatum extract
Squalane~2.7–3.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Tocopheryl acetate~2.1–2.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Panthenol~1.6–2%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Niacinamide~1.3–1.6%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterialReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Vernonia appendiculata leaf extract~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vernonia appendiculata leaf extract
Allantoin~0.8–1.2%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-blemishReduces irritationExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
7-dehydrocholesterol~0.7–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Pro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasis

More about 7-dehydrocholesterol
Ubiquinone~0.65–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer~0.65–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer
Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6
Polyquaternium-55~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Polyquaternium-55
Sucrose laurate~0.6–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Sucrose laurate
Phenoxyethanol~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.5–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Plantago lanceolata leaf extract~0.5–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Plantago lanceolata leaf extract
Xanthan gum~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Tribehenin~0.5–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tribehenin
Ceramide ng~0.5–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ng
Peg-10 phytosterol~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-10 phytosterol
Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12~0.4–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizing

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.45–0.7%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Padina pavonica thallus extract~0.35–0.6%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help to soften the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to have anti-oxidant properties, but evidence in missing

More about Padina pavonica thallus extract
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Triticum vulgare germ extract~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intolerance

More about Triticum vulgare germ extract
Helianthus annuus seed extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Helianthus annuus seed extract
Equisetum arvense extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties. Can be irritating

More about Equisetum arvense extract
Commiphora myrrha oil~0.1–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Commiphora myrrha oil
Rosa damascena extract~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract
Retinyl palmitate~0.05–0.15%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Ingredient list view

Water, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Glycerin, Punica granatum extract, Squalane, Tocopheryl acetate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Vernonia appendiculata leaf extract, Allantoin, 7-dehydrocholesterol, Ubiquinone, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Polyquaternium-55, Sucrose laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Xanthan gum, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Tribehenin, Ceramide ng, Peg-10 phytosterol, Palmitoyl hexapeptide-12, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Padina pavonica thallus extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Triticum vulgare germ extract, Helianthus annuus seed extract, Equisetum arvense extract, Commiphora myrrha oil, Rosa damascena extract, Retinyl palmitate

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Bluemercury
$325.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
RetrouvéVoyage Nutrient Face SerumYOUR PRODUCTRevision SkincareAdvanced Pigment Corrector+MedicubeHyaluronic Multi Peptide SerumNacomi Next LevelMultifunctional Face Serum, Trehalose 10%
Match—79%79%78%
Price$325.00$165.00−$160.00$20.51−$304.49—
Shared key ingredients—7 of 147 of 144 of 14
Key difference—Acetyl Hexapeptide-1Tripeptide-1Lactic Acid
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamagencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacysciencedirect.com
  3. 3
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Extract of Punica granatum inhibits skin photoaging induced by UVB irradiationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Topical microemulsion containing Punica granatum extract: its control over skin erythema and melanin in healthy Asian subjectsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Punica granatum -Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
Retrouvé Voyage Nutrient Face Serum
RetrouvéVoyage Nutrient Face Serum
Buy at Bluemercury$325.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Bluemercury$325.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.