Pure Bubbles

Pure Bubbles Centella Moisturiser

Name: Pure Bubbles - Centella Moisturiser
Brand: Pure Bubbles

Efficacy87/100IrritancyLow

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

18 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Centella Moisturiser”

Source: Pure Bubbles Skincare

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: betaine, hydroxyethyl urea.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalane, cholesterol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, phytosphingosine

Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.5–1.2%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.4–0.95%

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.15–0.55%

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~1.6–2.4%

Ceramide apHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.6–1.4%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~1–1.6%

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.2–1.8%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.25%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.05–0.15%

PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.45–1.05%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.05–0.2%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.9–4.3%

TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.3%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.3%

Heptyl undecylenateKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish~0.2–0.75%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.75%

Avena sativa kernel oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.2–0.75%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.15–0.5%

Anti-aging

4 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains asiaticoside, centella asiatica extract. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.1–0.3%

Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~1.6–2.4%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea.

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.2–1.8%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract, centella asiatica extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

7 flagged ingredients

Low risk

We flag 7 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

EthoxydiglycolHelps to improve the product consistencyMedium~1.9–2.9%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~1.6–2.4%est.

Sodium lauroyl lactylateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.8%est.

Heptyl undecylenateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finishMedium~0.2–0.75%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.1–0.3%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.05–0.25%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.05–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

None flagged

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Ingredients

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Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Cetearyl olivate~4.7–7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate

Sorbitan olivate~3.8–5.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate

Squalane~2.9–4.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Ethoxydiglycol~1.9–2.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to improve the product consistency

More about Ethoxydiglycol

Centella asiatica extract~1.6–2.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Propanediol~1.4–2.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Hydroxyethyl urea~1.2–1.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

ExfoliationMoisturizing

A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients

More about Hydroxyethyl urea

Ceramide np~1–1.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Ceramide ap~0.6–1.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ap

Ceramide eop~0.5–1.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide eop

Phytosphingosine~0.45–1.05%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol~0.4–0.95%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Sodium lauroyl lactylate~0.35–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sodium lauroyl lactylate

Carbomer~0.3–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Xanthan gum~0.35–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.3–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Avena sativa kernel oil~0.2–0.75%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel oil

Heptyl undecylenate~0.2–0.75%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from the skin surface over time and create a nice product finish

More about Heptyl undecylenate

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

Betaine~0.15–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine

Niacinamide~0.15–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Triethylene glycol~0.1–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Triethylene glycol

Asiaticoside~0.1–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Trehalose~0.1–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose

Madecassic acid~0.05–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Sodium pca~0.05–0.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Asiatic acid~0.05–0.15%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizing

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Sodium gluconate~0.01–0.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate

Ingredient list view

Water, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, Squalane, Ethoxydiglycol, Centella asiatica extract, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl urea, Ceramide np, Ceramide ap, Ceramide eop, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan gum, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Avena sativa kernel oil, Heptyl undecylenate, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Betaine, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol, Triethylene glycol, Asiaticoside, Trehalose, Madecassic acid, Sodium pca, Asiatic acid, Sodium gluconate

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Pure BubblesCentella MoisturiserYOUR PRODUCT	DermaticaSoothing Centella Gel Moisturiser	CeraVeOil Control Moisturising Gel-Cream	COSRXDerma Water Barrier Moisturizer
Match	—	81%	78%	76%
Price	—	$17.26	$17.00	—
Shared key ingredients	—	8 of 17	6 of 17	6 of 17
Key difference	—	Panthenol	Sodium Hyaluronate	Ceramide Ns
Irritancy	Low	Low	Low	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Pure Bubbles - Centella Moisturiser" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (betaine, hydroxyethyl urea and trehalose) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide eop, ceramide np, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and squalane) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (phytosphingosine 0.45% - 1.05%, ceramide eop 0.50% - 1.20%, ceramide ap 0.60% - 1.40% and ceramide np 1.00% - 1.60%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.05% - 0.15%, madecassic acid 0.05% - 0.25% and asiaticoside 0.10% - 0.30% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: niacinamide and avena sativa kernel oil

Irritation risk

This product does not contain known common irritants and is suitable for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

1
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
2
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
4
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
5
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
6
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
7
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
8
Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethyl Urea As Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
9
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory propertiesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
12
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
15
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
16
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com

Pure BubblesCentella Moisturiser

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