Proto-col Moisturising Facial Gel

Proto-col Moisturising Facial Gel

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Evens skin tone
Retinyl palmitate, Ascorbic acid
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“Guava fruit extract is also full of Vitamin C, which aids in collagen production and Vitamin K, which improves skin discolouration.”
Source: Face the future

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.35–0.8%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.05–0.2%
Anti-aging
Retinyl palmitate, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice + 1 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“Helps reduce the appearance of fine lines”
Source: Face the future

This product contains retinyl palmitate. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.35–0.8%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.5–2.2%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.05–0.2%
Moisturizing
Corallina officinalis extract, Faex extract + 9 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Moisturising Facial Gel”
Source: Face the future

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, caprylyl glycol.

Corallina officinalis extractKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~1.3–1.9%
Faex extractKey activeEffect: HighYeast extract. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.8–2.6%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1–1.6%
Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency~3.8–5.6%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~6.3–9.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.2–3.3%
Hydrolyzed silkKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
Royal jellyKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–1%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.5%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~1.5–2.2%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~2.8–4.2%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~2.8–4.2%est.
Royal jellyHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinHigh~0.4–1%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
Psidium guajava fruit extractA fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~0.2–0.7%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6.3–9.4%est.
Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymerHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistencyMedium~3.8–5.6%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~1.5–2.2%est.
TriethanolamineUsed to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smellMedium~0.5–1.2%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.35–0.85%est.
Hydrolyzed silkCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Corallina officinalis extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants3/5~1.3–1.9%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6.3–9.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer~3.8–5.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and provide a longer-lasting hydration. Can create a thicker product consistency

More about Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer
Propylene glycol~2.8–4.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Glycerin~2.2–3.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Faex extract~1.8–2.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Yeast extract. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Faex extract
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~1.5–2.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAntibacterialAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Corallina officinalis extract~1.3–1.9%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants

More about Corallina officinalis extract
Sodium hyaluronate~1–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Carbomer~0.85–1.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Triethanolamine~0.5–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to adjust pH of the product and can help improve the product's smell

More about Triethanolamine
Royal jelly~0.4–1%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Royal jelly
Retinyl palmitate~0.35–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Sodium chloride~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride
Psidium guajava fruit extract~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Psidium guajava fruit extract
Hydrolyzed silk~0.15–0.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed silk
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Decylene glycol~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to creat a nice product texture and support penetration of other ingredients

More about Decylene glycol
Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Citric acid~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Sodium benzoate~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Ascorbic acid~0.05–0.2%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Parfum~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, Propylene glycol, Glycerin, Faex extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Corallina officinalis extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Royal jelly, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium chloride, Psidium guajava fruit extract, Hydrolyzed silk, Phenoxyethanol, Decylene glycol, Caprylyl glycol, Citric acid, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Ascorbic acid, Parfum

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Proto-col Moisturising Facial Gel
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