What's In My Jar
Philosophy Renewed Hope in a Jar Moisturiser for Dry Skin
Philosophy

Philosophy Renewed Hope in a Jar Moisturiser for Dry Skin

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
Glycolic acid, Adenosine + 1 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Infused with Asian Fruit Extracts and a triple blend of Alpha Hydroxy Acids, the luxurious, whipped moisturiser delivers long-lasting moisture and hydration, whilst helping to minimise the appearance of fine lines and enlarged pores for a smoother, more refined texture.”
Source: Recreate Yourself

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, glycolic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~1.3–2%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.05–0.3%
Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.1–0.3%
Moisturizing
Glycerin, Hyaluronic acid + 14 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Infused with Asian Fruit Extracts and a triple blend of Alpha Hydroxy Acids, the luxurious, whipped moisturiser delivers long-lasting moisture and hydration, whilst helping to minimise the appearance of fine lines and enlarged pores for a smoother, more refined texture.”
Source: Recreate Yourself

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, c12-15 alkyl benzoate.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–6.3%
Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.1–0.3%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.2–1.9%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.25%
Faex extractKey activeEffect: HighYeast extract. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.35%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.1–0.4%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~3.6–5.4%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.05–0.3%
C12-15 alkyl benzoateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumEnhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth~1.6–2.4%
Dimethicone crosspolymerKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface~0.15–0.7%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.8–1.2%
C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.3–0.75%
Polysilicone-11Effect: LowA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~0.15–0.65%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~2.4–3.7%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2–2.9%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.1–0.4%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Glycolic acid, Mandelic acid
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid, mandelic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~1.3–2%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.1–0.4%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · Glycolic acid, Mandelic acid
Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, mandelic acid.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid~1.3–2%
Mandelic acidKey activeEffect: HighHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid~0.1–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Parfum, Limonene + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh~1.3–2%est.
Mandelic acidHelps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acidHigh~0.1–0.4%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~1–1.5%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~0.2–0.8%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.6%est.
Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.5%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.1–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.3%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.3%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.3%est.
Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.01–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.1–0.4%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.8–1.2%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~0.2–0.8%est.
Edit
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Hyaluron Aqua Soft Cream
Secret Key Hyaluron Aqua Soft Cream
CheaperHigher efficacy · 100/10064% match
$11.40
Zero Pore Cream
Dr.want Zero Pore Cream
Cheaper58% match
$27.20
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.2–6.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane~3.6–5.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Stearic acid~2.4–3.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Butylene glycol~2–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
C12-15 alkyl benzoate~1.6–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth

More about C12-15 alkyl benzoate
Glycolic acid~1.3–2%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Dimethicone~1.2–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Polyacrylamide~1–1.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide
Cetearyl alcohol~0.8–1.2%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Phenoxyethanol~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium hydroxide~0.35–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
C13-14 isoparaffin~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin
Dimethicone crosspolymer~0.15–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface

More about Dimethicone crosspolymer
Ceteareth-20~0.2–0.8%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Polysilicone-11~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Laureth-7~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7
Citric acid~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Mandelic acid~0.1–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAntibacterial

Helps shed the upper layer of dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing smoother, brighter skin. It can help to reduce hyperpigmentation. It has anti-bacterial properties, and might help to reduce blemishes, as well as fine lines and wrinkles. It is considered to be gentler than glycolic acid

More about Mandelic acid
Tocopheryl acetate~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Bisabolol~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Synthetic fluorphlogopite~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.1–0.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Propanediol~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Parfum~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Disodium edta~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Adenosine~0.05–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract
Limonene~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Faex extract~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Yeast extract. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Faex extract
Magnesium stearate~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a nice product texture

More about Magnesium stearate
Opuntia coccinellifera flower extract~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Opuntia coccinellifera flower extract
Silica dimethyl silylate~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Silica dimethyl silylate
Caprylyl glycol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Bht~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Hyaluronic acid~0.1–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid
Silanetriol~0.05–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Silanetriol
Sodium hyaluronate~0.05–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Sorbic acid~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid
Farnesol~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Hexylene glycol~0.01–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Ci 77163~0.01–0.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Colorant

More about Ci 77163
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Stearic acid, Butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Glycolic acid, Dimethicone, Polyacrylamide, Cetearyl alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium hydroxide, C13-14 isoparaffin, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Ceteareth-20, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Laureth-7, Citric acid, Chlorphenesin, Mandelic acid, Tocopheryl acetate, Bisabolol, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Propanediol, Parfum, Disodium edta, Adenosine, Evodia rutaecarpa fruit extract, Limonene, Faex extract, Magnesium stearate, Opuntia coccinellifera flower extract, Silica dimethyl silylate, Caprylyl glycol, Bht, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hyaluronic acid, Silanetriol, Sodium hyaluronate, Sorbic acid, Farnesol, Hexylene glycol, Ci 77163

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PhilosophyRenewed Hope in a Jar Moisturiser for Dry SkinYOUR PRODUCTSecret KeyHyaluron Aqua Soft CreamDr.wantZero Pore CreamThe YEONCanola Honey Glowful Cream
Match—64%58%57%
Price$47.48$11.40−$36.08$27.20−$20.28$22.20−$25.28
Shared key ingredients—6 of 105 of 106 of 10
Key difference—NiacinamideSalicylic AcidDimethiconol
Irritancy High Medium High High
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinmdpi.com
  5. 5
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  6. 6
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
Philosophy Renewed Hope in a Jar Moisturiser for Dry Skin
PhilosophyRenewed Hope in a Jar Moisturiser for Dry Skin
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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.