Philosophy Nature In A Jar Cica Complex Recovery Moisturizer

Philosophy Nature In A Jar Cica Complex Recovery Moisturizer

Efficacy66/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin + 16 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Nature In A Jar Cica Complex Recovery Moisturizer”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, adansonia digitata seed oil.

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.2–1.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.3–5.3%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.15%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.2–0.4%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.6–4.4%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~0.35–0.6%
Adansonia digitata seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~3.1–3.8%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~2.3–2.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.55–0.85%
Glyceryl caprylate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products~0.25–0.5%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–1.7%
Glyceryl undecylenate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulation~0.25–0.45%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.5–0.75%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.5–0.75%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.2–0.4%
Anti-aging
Centella asiatica leaf extract, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 2 more
Moderate evidence
What the product description says
“Clinical Results In 4-week self-assessment study with 114 women aged 30–50 , Skin felt instantly soothed , In 4 weeks, skin looks and feels recovered and revived In an 8-week clinical study with 43 women aged 30–50 , In 2 weeks, users reported improved skin radiance, texture, and tone”
Source: Sephora CA

This product contains centella asiatica leaf extract. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Centella asiatica leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.15–0.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.2–1.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.2–0.4%
Evens skin tone
Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Limited evidence
What the product description says
“Soothing Cica or Tiger Grass works to calm irritation and redness for a more even complexion, reducing sensations of sensitivity.”
Source: Lookfantastic CA

This product contains ingredients (glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract) that could help reduce hyperpigmentation (for example, post-acne marks or age spots) in theory, but there is not enough evidence that they actually work.

Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extractEffect: LowLicorice root extract. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation~0.2–0.4%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Parfum, Citronellol + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.6–0.9%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Adansonia digitata seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Glyceryl undecylenateHelps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extractLicorice root extract. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Centella asiatica leaf extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.Medium~0.15–0.3%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.2–1.5%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.6–4.4%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.3–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Cetearyl alcohol~3.6–4.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate
Dicaprylyl carbonate~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Cetearyl olivate~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Sorbitan olivate~1.6–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Butylene glycol~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.2–1.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
C9-12 alkane~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about C9-12 alkane
1,2-hexanediol~0.6–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Caprylyl glycol~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Carbomer~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Parfum~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Xanthan gum~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Coco-caprylate/caprate~0.35–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Adansonia digitata seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Adansonia digitata seed oil
Citrullus lanatus seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Glyceryl caprylate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that can also help water and oil mix together, as well as prevent bacteria growth in products

More about Glyceryl caprylate
Glyceryl undecylenate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and helps preserve the product formulation

More about Glyceryl undecylenate
Opuntia tuna fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Propanediol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Hydrolyzed soy flour~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Agave americana leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Citric acid~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Adansonia digitata fruit extract~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Phospholipids~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin tone

Licorice root extract. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Potassium sorbate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Linalool~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Centella asiatica leaf extract~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

More about Centella asiatica leaf extract
Tocopherol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Glycyrrhiza glabra rhizome/root extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationEvens skin toneReduces rednessAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Caramel~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Caramel
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, Butylene glycol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, C9-12 alkane, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Carbomer, Parfum, Xanthan gum, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Tocopheryl acetate, Pentylene glycol, Sodium hydroxide, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Citrullus lanatus seed oil, Glyceryl caprylate, Glyceryl undecylenate, Opuntia tuna fruit extract, Propanediol, Hydrolyzed soy flour, Agave americana leaf extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Citric acid, Sodium benzoate, Adansonia digitata fruit extract, Phospholipids, Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract, Citronellol, Potassium sorbate, Linalool, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza glabra rhizome/root extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Caramel

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 9 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Philosophy Nature In A Jar Cica Complex Recovery Moisturizer
PhilosophyNature In A Jar Cica Complex Recovery Moisturizer

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.