Pharmaceris T - Pure Retinol 0.3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night Cream

Pharmaceris T - Pure Retinol 0.3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night Cream”
From product name

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating0.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2%
Anti-blemish
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night Cream”
From product name

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating0.3%
Moisturizing
13 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“To ensure optimal skin comfort, the formula is enriched with moisturising and nourishing emollient ingredients (lily extract, shea butter, olive wax and cottonseed oil) and 4% biomimetic squalane that strengthens the lipid barrier of the epidermis.”
Source: N/A

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glucose.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: beeswax, butyrospermum parkii butter.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np

Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.3–0.55%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.35%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.4–3%
BeeswaxKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4–4.9%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2–2.4%
C10-18 triglyceridesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture~0.3–0.5%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
Paraffin· OcclusiveEffect: LowPrevents water loss from the skin surface and thickens the product consistency~0.3–0.5%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.45–0.7%
Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~6.5–7.9%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.3–0.6%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating0.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.45%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating0.3%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Retinol, Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh0.3%
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05%est.
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearateUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~2.8–3.4%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.7–1%est.
Hydrogenated olive oil decyl estersHelps stabilize the product formulationMedium~1–1.2%est.
Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.65–1%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Glyceryl behenateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
BhaHelps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.7–2%est.
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~1.1–1.4%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2–2.4%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Hydrogenated polydecene~6.5–7.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene
Glycerin~4–4.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate~2.8–3.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
Squalane~2.4–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Cetearyl alcohol~2–2.4%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.7–2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
1,2-hexanediol~0.7–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~1.1–1.4%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil
Hydrogenated olive oil decyl esters~1–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Hydrogenated olive oil decyl esters
Cetearyl glucoside~0.65–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Retinol0.3%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Sodium polyacrylate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.4–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Pentylene glycol~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Glyceryl behenate~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl behenate
Paraffin~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Prevents water loss from the skin surface and thickens the product consistency

More about Paraffin
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
C10-18 triglycerides~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture

More about C10-18 triglycerides
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Bha~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps preserve the product formulation

More about Bha
Cera alba~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Beeswax~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Beeswax
Stearic acid~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Glucose~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Ceramide np~0.2–0.35%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Clintonia borealis root extract~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Bht~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Parfum~0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ingredient list view

Water, Hydrogenated polydecene, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, Squalane, Cetearyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, 1,2-hexanediol, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Hydrogenated olive oil decyl esters, Cetearyl glucoside, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Retinol, Sodium polyacrylate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pentylene glycol, Glyceryl behenate, Paraffin, Xanthan gum, Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, C10-18 triglycerides, Tocopheryl acetate, Bha, Cera alba, Beeswax, Stearic acid, Glucose, Ceramide np, Ethylhexylglycerin, Clintonia borealis root extract, Bht, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PharmacerisT - Pure Retinol 0.3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night CreamYOUR PRODUCTPaula's choiceResist Barrier Repair Moisturiser with RetinolHydroPeptideTravel-Size Nimni CreamQuinceFig.1 Retinol Night Cream No. 2
Match—88%88%87%
Price$21.15$50.24+$29.09$45.00+$23.85—
Shared key ingredients—6 of 85 of 85 of 8
Key difference—Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1Linoleic AcidPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Pharmaceris - T - Pure Retinol 0.3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night Cream" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Pharmaceris - T - Pure Retinol 0.3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night Cream ticks this box. Glycerin and glucose in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, beeswax, butyrospermum parkii butter, cera alba and squalane) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.45% (declared). Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide np 0.20% - 0.35%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 18.15$ in the United States and for 16.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Pharmaceris T - Pure Retinol 0.3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night Cream
PharmacerisT - Pure Retinol 0.3 Anti-Acne Retinol Night Cream

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