Payot Unifying Skin-Perfecting Airy-Light Cream

Payot Unifying Skin-Perfecting Airy-Light Cream

Efficacy41/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Glycerin, Oleyl erucate + 14 more
Works
What the product description says
“an airy and creamy-textured moisturiser that works to brighten and even out the complexion with whitening Cress and anti-ageing Kiwi extract”
Source: Recreate Yourself

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, glycine soja oil.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~5.1–6.2%
Oleyl erucateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~4.2–5.1%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.2–3.9%
Diethylhexyl carbonateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.5–1.8%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.5–0.7%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.45–0.7%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.3–0.5%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~2.4–2.9%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~2–2.4%
Stearic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~1.7–2.1%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.7–1.05%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.5%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.3–0.55%
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Anti-aging
Butyrospermum parkii butter, Tocopherol + 1 more
Not delivered
What the product description says
“an airy and creamy-textured moisturiser that works to brighten and even out the complexion with whitening Cress and anti-ageing Kiwi extract”
Source: Recreate Yourself

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - butyrospermum parkii butter - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.2–3.9%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.6%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.2–0.4%
Evens skin tone
Ascorbic acid ~0.2–0.4%, below the ~4% it needs
Under-dosed
What the product description says
“Target uneven tone and pigmentation with the PAYOT Unifying Skin-Perfecting Airy-Light Cream”
Source: Recreate Yourself

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Parfum, Calendula officinalis flower extract + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Actinidia chinensis fruit waterClaimed to have anti-oxidant properties but it is unlikely that it can have an effect in the skinHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
PvpHelps evenly disperse other ingredients in a formulation and create an even layer on the surface of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
O-cymen-5-olA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Ci 14700A colorantMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~3.2–3.9%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.45–0.7%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~5.1–6.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Oleyl erucate~4.2–5.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Oleyl erucate
Butyrospermum parkii butter~3.2–3.9%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Dicaprylyl carbonate~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Palmitic acid~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Stearic acid~1.7–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Diethylhexyl carbonate~1.5–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Diethylhexyl carbonate
Synthetic fluorphlogopite~1.3–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite
Nylon-12~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Nylon-12
Butylene glycol~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Parfum~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Lepidium sativum sprout extract~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Glycine soja oil~0.45–0.7%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Jojoba esters~0.5–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Actinidia chinensis fruit water~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Claimed to have anti-oxidant properties but it is unlikely that it can have an effect in the skin

More about Actinidia chinensis fruit water
Sophora flavescens root extract~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Tocopherol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Lecithin~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Tropolone~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tropolone
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax
1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Glyceryl stearate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Sodium polyacrylate~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate
Pvp~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps evenly disperse other ingredients in a formulation and create an even layer on the surface of the skin

More about Pvp
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate
Cetyl alcohol~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
O-cymen-5-ol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about O-cymen-5-ol
Ascorbic acid~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Alcohol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Tin oxide~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Citric acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ci 77891~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Ci 19140~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140
Ci 14700~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant

More about Ci 14700
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Oleyl erucate, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Palmitic acid, Stearic acid, Diethylhexyl carbonate, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Nylon-12, Butylene glycol, Parfum, Lepidium sativum sprout extract, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Glycine soja oil, Jojoba esters, Actinidia chinensis fruit water, Sophora flavescens root extract, Tocopherol, Lecithin, Tropolone, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, 1,2-hexanediol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Caprylyl glycol, Sodium polyacrylate, Pvp, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Cetyl alcohol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, O-cymen-5-ol, Ascorbic acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Alcohol, Tin oxide, Phenoxyethanol, Citric acid, Ci 77891, Ci 19140, Ci 14700

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Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
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Match—43%43%42%
Price——$68.91—
Shared key ingredients—5 of 75 of 74 of 7
Key difference—Copernicia Cerifera WaxMadecassosidePrickly Pear Seed Oil
Irritancy High Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 13 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Payot Unifying Skin-Perfecting Airy-Light Cream
PayotUnifying Skin-Perfecting Airy-Light Cream

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