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Payot Suprême Jeunesse Lèvres Lips Replumping Global Youth Care
Payot

Payot Suprême Jeunesse Lèvres Lips Replumping Global Youth Care

Efficacy41/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
20 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Payot Suprême Jeunesse Lèvres Lips Replumping Global Youth Care 50ml is a care that recharges your skin's batteries overnight.This anti-aging night care compensates for the overwork of the skin's natural defenses involved in accelerated aging (wrinkles, sagging, spots, lack of radiance and dehydration).”
Source: Cocoon Center

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.15–0.3%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.9–4.8%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.5–1.8%
PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.5–0.75%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~5.4–6.6%
Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.35%
Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~1.6–2%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.75–1.15%
Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~2.4–2.9%
BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.1–0.15%
Isodecyl neopentanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.~0.65–0.95%
Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~3.1–3.7%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.4–0.6%
Alaria esculenta extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.15–0.3%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.3%
Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Limited support
What the product description says
“Payot Suprême Jeunesse Lèvres Lips Replumping Global Youth Care 50ml is a care that recharges your skin's batteries overnight.This anti-aging night care compensates for the overwork of the skin's natural defenses involved in accelerated aging (wrinkles, sagging, spots, lack of radiance and dehydration).”
Source: Cocoon Center

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.These ingredients - butyrospermum parkii butter, decarboxy carnosine hcl - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient decarboxy carnosine hcl might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~5.4–6.6%
Decarboxy carnosine hclEffect: LowMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.15–0.25%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.3%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.15–0.3%
Evens skin tone
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“It appears firmer, wrinkles are smoothed out, dark spots fade.Tested under dermatological control.Made in France.”
Source: Cocoon Center

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.3%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 7 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (decarboxy carnosine hcl) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Decarboxy carnosine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.15–0.25%
Undaria pinnatifida extractEffect: LowA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~5.4–6.6%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.3%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.3%
Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.15–0.3%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Parfum, Alcohol
Medium risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Orchid extractA plant extract that can be used as fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
Steareth-2Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.15–0.3%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.3%est.
O-cymen-5-olA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerAttracts water into the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~5.4–6.6%est.
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~1.6–2%est.
Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.3–0.55%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Butyrospermum parkii butter~5.4–6.6%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Glycerin~3.9–4.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Isohexadecane~3.1–3.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane
Cetearyl isononanoate~2–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

An emollient that softens the skin and helps prevent moisture loss.

More about Cetearyl isononanoate
Ethylhexyl palmitate~1.6–2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Dimethicone~1.5–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Euglena gracilis extract~1.1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Euglena gracilis extract
Butylene glycol~0.75–1.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Isodecyl neopentanoate~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.

More about Isodecyl neopentanoate
Pentaerythrityl distearate~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Pentaerythrityl distearate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Steareth-21~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.4–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.3–0.55%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil
Parfum~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Synthetic fluorphlogopite~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite
Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Steareth-2~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-2
Chlorphenesin~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Ethylhexyl stearate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate
Ci 77891~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Ci 77891
Titanium dioxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Decarboxy carnosine hcl~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed

More about Decarboxy carnosine hcl
O-cymen-5-ol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about O-cymen-5-ol
Alaria esculenta extract~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract
Orchid extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that can be used as fragrance

More about Orchid extract
Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate
Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer
Sodium isostearate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sodium isostearate
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Citric acid~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Alcohol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Tin oxide~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide
Tocopherol~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Biotin~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin
Ingredient list view

Water, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, Cetearyl isononanoate, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Dimethicone, Euglena gracilis extract, Butylene glycol, Isodecyl neopentanoate, Pentaerythrityl distearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Steareth-21, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Parfum, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Phenoxyethanol, Steareth-2, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexyl stearate, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Decarboxy carnosine hcl, O-cymen-5-ol, Alaria esculenta extract, Orchid extract, Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Sodium isostearate, Biosaccharide gum-1, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Citric acid, Alcohol, Tin oxide, Tocopherol, Potassium sorbate, Biotin

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  3. 3
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  4. 4
    5: Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Steareth-2,-4,-6,-7,-10,-11,-13,-15, and-20journals.sagepub.com
  5. 5
    Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamicssciencedirect.com
  6. 6
    Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysisscielo.br
Payot Suprême Jeunesse Lèvres Lips Replumping Global Youth Care
PayotSuprême Jeunesse Lèvres Lips Replumping Global Youth Care
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