Payot

Payot Jeunesse Global Anti-Ageing Night Care

Name: Payot - Jeunesse Global Anti-Ageing Night Care
Brand: Payot

Efficacy41/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

1 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

20 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“Protect and nourish your skin with PAYOT Jeunesse Global Anti-Ageing Night Care , a replenishing night cream that works to combat signs of ageing whilst you sleep.”

Source: Mankind

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, biosaccharide gum-1.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethicone.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.9–4.8%

PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.5–0.75%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%

Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.35%

Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.2–0.4%

Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.15–0.3%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~5.4–6.6%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.5–1.8%

Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~1.6–2%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~3.1–3.7%

Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

BiotinEffect: LowMight have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect~0.1–0.15%

Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowA type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~2.4–2.9%

Isodecyl neopentanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.~0.65–0.95%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.75–1.1%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.4–0.6%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.2%

Anti-aging

5 ingredients credited for this claim

Limited support

What the product description says

“Jeunesse Global Anti-Ageing Night Care”

From product name

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.These ingredients - butyrospermum parkii butter, decarboxy carnosine hcl - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient decarboxy carnosine hcl might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Decarboxy carnosine hclEffect: LowMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.15–0.25%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~5.4–6.6%

Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.2–0.4%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.3%

Evens skin tone

1 ingredient credited for this claim

Weak support

What the product description says

“Utilising a Youth Process complex and a chrono-biologically released active ingredient, the formula helps counteract damage that has accumulated throughout the day; its dose of plumping hyaluronic acid and brightening vitamin C help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and diminish the severity of dark spots.”

Source: Mankind

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (decarboxy carnosine hcl) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Decarboxy carnosine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.15–0.25%

Undaria pinnatifida extractEffect: LowA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.35%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.2%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Parfum

Medium risk

We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Orchid extractA plant extract that can be used as fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Steareth-21Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.4–0.6%est.

Steareth-2Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.15–0.3%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.3%est.

O-cymen-5-olA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerAttracts water into the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

BhtA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~5.4–6.6%est.

Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~1.6–2%est.

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.2–0.4%est.

Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.3–0.55%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Butyrospermum parkii butter~5.4–6.6%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Glycerin~3.9–4.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Isohexadecane~3.1–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane~2.4–2.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A type of silicone that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane

Cetearyl isononanoate~2–2.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

An emollient that softens the skin and helps prevent moisture loss.

More about Cetearyl isononanoate

Ethylhexyl palmitate~1.6–2%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate

Dimethicone~1.5–1.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Euglena gracilis extract~1.1–1.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Euglena gracilis extract

Butylene glycol~0.75–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Isodecyl neopentanoate~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.

More about Isodecyl neopentanoate

Pentaerythrityl distearate~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Pentaerythrityl distearate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Steareth-21~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-21

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.4–0.6%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.3–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil

Parfum~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Synthetic fluorphlogopite~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite

Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Steareth-2~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-2

Chlorphenesin~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Ethylhexyl stearate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate

Ci 77891~0.1–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ci 77891

Titanium dioxide~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Decarboxy carnosine hcl~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed

More about Decarboxy carnosine hcl

O-cymen-5-ol~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about O-cymen-5-ol

Algae extract~0.2–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract

Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer

Sodium isostearate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Sodium isostearate

Biosaccharide gum-1~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1

Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Undaria pinnatifida extract~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract

Citric acid~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Tin oxide~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation

More about Tin oxide

Bht~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Bht

Magnolol~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Magnolol

Orchid extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant extract that can be used as fragrance

More about Orchid extract

Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Tocopherol~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Biotin~0.1–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect

More about Biotin

Ingredient list view

Water, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Bis-peg-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, Cetearyl isononanoate, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Dimethicone, Euglena gracilis extract, Butylene glycol, Isodecyl neopentanoate, Pentaerythrityl distearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Steareth-21, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Parfum, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Phenoxyethanol, Steareth-2, Chlorphenesin, Ethylhexyl stearate, Ci 77891, Titanium dioxide, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Decarboxy carnosine hcl, O-cymen-5-ol, Algae extract, Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Sodium isostearate, Biosaccharide gum-1, Sodium hyaluronate, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Citric acid, Tin oxide, Bht, Magnolol, Orchid extract, Potassium sorbate, Tocopherol, Biotin