Payot Hydra 24+ Water Concentrate

Payot Hydra 24+ Water Concentrate

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Moisturizing
Urea, Sodium hyaluronate + 9 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Hydra 24+ Water Concentrate”
From product name

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": biosaccharide gum-1, glycerin.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.45–0.7%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.55–0.85%
Biosaccharide gum-1Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin~0.45–0.7%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.6%
SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~4–4.9%
AlginEffect: LowUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.75%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.3–0.55%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.4%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Ficus carica fruit extract, Citrullus lanatus fruit extract
May help

This product contains antioxidants (ficus carica fruit extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ficus carica fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect~1.6–1.9%
Citrullus lanatus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound~1.4–1.7%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Serine
May help

This product contains serine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Parfum
Medium risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.05%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~6.5–8%est.
Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~4–4.9%est.
Ficus carica fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectMedium~1.6–1.9%est.
Citrullus lanatus fruit extractA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compoundMedium~1.4–1.7%est.
Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.8–1.2%est.
Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.65–1%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.05%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
AlginUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.5–0.75%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Methylpropanediol~6.5–8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol
Peg-8~4–4.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8
Propanediol~3–3.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Nymphaea caerulea flower water~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Nymphaea alba flower extract~1.8–2.3%
Formula
Ficus carica fruit extract~1.6–1.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

More about Ficus carica fruit extract
Citrullus lanatus fruit extract~1.4–1.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound

More about Citrullus lanatus fruit extract
Sodium hyaluronate~1.1–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Maris sal~0.8–1.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Maris sal
Sea salt~0.65–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Sea salt
Sodium carrageenan~0.6–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium carrageenan
Glycerin~0.55–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Algin~0.5–0.75%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Algin
Urea~0.45–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Biosaccharide gum-1~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and is claimed to provide a longer-lasting hydration because of its ability to create a water-binding film on the surface of the skin

More about Biosaccharide gum-1
Pullulan~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Trehalose~0.4–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Propylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Pentylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Serine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Disodium phosphate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate
Glyceryl polyacrylate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to create a nice product texture and spread the product more easily on the skin

More about Glyceryl polyacrylate
Sodium hydroxide~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Potassium phosphate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Parfum~0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ci 42090~0.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Ingredient list view

Water, Methylpropanediol, Peg-8, Propanediol, Nymphaea caerulea flower water, Nymphaea alba flower extract, Ficus carica fruit extract, Citrullus lanatus fruit extract, Sodium hyaluronate, Maris sal, Sea salt, Sodium carrageenan, Glycerin, Algin, Urea, Biosaccharide gum-1, Pullulan, Trehalose, Propylene glycol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Pentylene glycol, Serine, Caprylyl glycol, Disodium phosphate, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Sodium hydroxide, Potassium phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Ci 42090

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PayotHydra 24+ Water ConcentrateYOUR PRODUCTAlpha-HHyaluronic 8 Ultrafiller SerumLieracHydragenist The Rehydrating SerumNacomidry skin toner
Match—63%62%62%
Price—$29.03$27.49$5.86
Shared key ingredients—6 of 87 of 87 of 8
Key difference—Dimethylmethoxy ChromanolGluconolactoneAllantoin
Irritancy Medium Low Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Payot - Hydra 24+ Water Concentrate" is effective for: Moisturizing

This product could be helpful for: Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Humectants (trehalose 0.40% - 0.60%, biosaccharide gum-1 0.45% - 0.70%, urea 0.45% - 0.70%, glycerin 0.55% - 0.85% and sodium hyaluronate 1.10% - 1.40%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails for 50.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 10 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
    Topical urea in skincare: A reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
Payot Hydra 24+ Water Concentrate
PayotHydra 24+ Water Concentrate

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.