Payot

Payot Global Lip Plumping Youth Care

Name: Payot - Global Lip Plumping Youth Care
Brand: Payot

Efficacy62/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Glycerin, Limnanthes alba seed oil + 8 more

Good evidence

What the product description says

“Global Lip Plumping Youth Care”

Source: Recreate Yourself

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, algae extract.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.3–0.7%

Limnanthes alba seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~2.1–3.2%

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.65%

Undaria pinnatifida extractKey activeEffect: HighA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~1.2–1.8%

Algae extractKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.6–1.4%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.5–6.7%

Tridecyl trimellitate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~26–39%

Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.8%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.75%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.35–0.85%

Anti-aging

Decarboxy carnosine hcl, Algae extract + 2 more

Limited evidence

What the product description says

“Plump up your juicy pout with the PAYOT Global Lip Plumping Youth Care ; an anti-ageing, volumising lip balm with a soft pink tint and glossy finish that instantly leaves lips looking full and radiant.”

Source: Recreate Yourself

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - decarboxy carnosine hcl - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient decarboxy carnosine hcl might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Decarboxy carnosine hclEffect: LowMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.45–1%

Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.6–1.4%

Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~2.1–3.2%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.35–0.85%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Decarboxy carnosine hcl, Undaria pinnatifida extract + 3 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (decarboxy carnosine hcl) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Decarboxy carnosine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.45–1%

Undaria pinnatifida extractEffect: LowA seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect~1.2–1.8%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: LowA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.8–1.2%

Limnanthes alba seed oilEffect: LowThis oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient~2.1–3.2%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.35–0.85%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

3 strong irritants: Methyl nicotinate, Alcohol + 1 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Orchid extractA plant extract that can be used as fragranceHigh~1.1–1.7%est.

Methyl nicotinateCauses redness and irritation in skin. Is often added to lip roducts to create a temporary plumping effect. Is likely to have a negative effect on skin's barrier functionHigh~0.15–0.7%est.

AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.1–0.45%est.

AromaAn unspecified blend of fragrant irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

Ci 45410A red colorantHigh~0.05–0.2%est.

Tridecyl trimellitateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~26–39%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.5–6.7%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.8–1.2%est.

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.35–0.85%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.75%est.

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerAttracts water into the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.15–0.65%est.

Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.55%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~0.6–1.4%est.

Ci 45410A red colorant3/5~0.05–0.2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Tridecyl trimellitate~26–39%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tridecyl trimellitate

Glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate~4.8–7.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.5–6.7%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Water~2.9–4.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Limnanthes alba seed oil~2.1–3.2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient

More about Limnanthes alba seed oil

Brassica alba sprout extract~1.6–2.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Brassica alba sprout extract

Undaria pinnatifida extract~1.2–1.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A seaweed extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Undaria pinnatifida extract

Orchid extract~1.1–1.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant extract that can be used as fragrance

More about Orchid extract

Tocopheryl acetate~0.8–1.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Algae extract~0.6–1.4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract

Decarboxy carnosine hcl~0.45–1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed

More about Decarboxy carnosine hcl

Methyl nicotinate~0.15–0.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Causes redness and irritation in skin. Is often added to lip roducts to create a temporary plumping effect. Is likely to have a negative effect on skin's barrier function

More about Methyl nicotinate

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.35–0.85%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Glycerin~0.3–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Magnolol~0.15–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Magnolol

Ethylhexyl stearate~0.2–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate

Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer~0.15–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer

Synthetic fluorphlogopite~0.15–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A mineral that is used as an optical filter (makes the skin looks nicer through light reflection) and to improve the texture of cosmetic products

More about Synthetic fluorphlogopite

Alcohol~0.1–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate

Sodium isostearate~0.15–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Sodium isostearate

Aroma~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An unspecified blend of fragrant irritating ingredients

More about Aroma

Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Mica~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica

Silica~0.1–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica

Ci 45410~0.05–0.2%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High
Comedogenicity: 3/5

A red colorant

More about Ci 45410

Titanium dioxide~0.05–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Ingredient list view

Tridecyl trimellitate, Glyceryl behenate/eicosadioate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Water, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Brassica alba sprout extract, Undaria pinnatifida extract, Orchid extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Algae extract, Decarboxy carnosine hcl, Methyl nicotinate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Glycerin, Magnolol, Ethylhexyl stearate, Caprylyl glycol, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Synthetic fluorphlogopite, Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate, Sodium isostearate, Aroma, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, Silica, Ci 45410, Titanium dioxide

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 8 studies and safety reviews.

PayotGlobal Lip Plumping Youth Care

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