Based on the ingredient list, "Payot - Cica Expert Speed Recovery Skincare" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Payot - Cica Expert Speed Recovery Skincare ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol, glycerin, magnesium pca, manganese pca and sodium pca) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Tripeptide-1, butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethiconol, cetearyl alcohol and cyclopentasiloxane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
This moistruizer also contains peptides (tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.50%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
This formulation also includes actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (its other name is Gotu Kola): madecassic acid 0.20% - 0.35%, asiatic acid 0.15% - 0.30% and asiaticoside 0.15% - 0.30% The Centella Asiatica actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
Irritation risk
There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 19.00£ in the United Kingdom.
Fortified with a Mineral Complex of Zinc, Copper and Manganese, the lightweight cream absorbs quickly into skin to target dry, damaged areas and promote cell renewal, whilst Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin B5 replenish moisture for a silky soft, smooth texture.
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”: these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, magnesium pca.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses
moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels
less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethiconol.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with
the hydration level: panthenol, tripeptide-1
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic
acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Often used as a part of an ingredient complex Physiogenyl together with Sodium PCA, Magnesium PCA and Zinc PCA. The manufacturer claims that it does more than attracting water, but there is no evidence or studies supporting this claim
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Anti-aging
This product contains asiaticoside, tripeptide-1.
These ingredients might be able to help
reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough
evidence that it actually works.
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic
acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
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Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside) that can help neutralize
free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic
acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
Promise
Can it deliver?
Moisturizing
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Reduces irritation
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic
acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
