Payot

Payot Cica Expert Speed Recovery Skincare

Name: Payot - Cica Expert Speed Recovery Skincare
Brand: Payot

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

23 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Fortified with a Mineral Complex of Zinc, Copper and Manganese, the lightweight cream absorbs quickly into skin to target dry, damaged areas and promote cell renewal, whilst Hyaluronic Acid and Vitamin B5 replenish moisture for a silky soft, smooth texture.”

Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, magnesium pca.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethiconol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol, tripeptide-1

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%

Magnesium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%

Manganese pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Often used as a part of an ingredient complex Physiogenyl together with Sodium PCA, Magnesium PCA and Zinc PCA. The manufacturer claims that it does more than attracting water, but there is no evidence or studies supporting this claim~0.3–0.55%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.45–0.7%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.4–0.65%

Tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Zinc pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.4–0.6%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%

DimethiconolKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time~0.25–0.4%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.5–1.9%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~5.9–7.2%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.35%

Dimethicone crosspolymerKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface~0.15–0.3%

CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~4.2–5.1%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2–2.5%

Avena sativa kernel flourEffect: LowA type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier~1–1.2%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.3%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.2–1.5%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~3.3–4.1%

Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~0.25–0.5%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.6–0.9%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.4–2.9%

Myristyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating~1.7–2.1%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Zinc pcaEffect: LowA compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing~0.4–0.6%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~5.9–7.2%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · 5 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains asiaticoside, tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%

Tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Malachite extractEffect: LowA mineral that is claimed to be able to support collagen product in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is missing~0.35–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

14 flagged ingredients

Medium risk

We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Myristyl alcoholHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritatingHigh~1.7–2.1%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

BhtA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~5.9–7.2%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2–2.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Butyrospermum parkii butter~5.9–7.2%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Cyclopentasiloxane~4.2–5.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane

Hydrogenated polyisobutene~3.3–4.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene

Butylene glycol~2.4–2.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Cetearyl alcohol~2–2.5%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Myristyl alcohol~1.7–2.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating

More about Myristyl alcohol

Glycerin~1.5–1.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Glyceryl stearate~1.2–1.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Peg-100 stearate~1–1.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

Avena sativa kernel flour~1–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier

More about Avena sativa kernel flour

Pentylene glycol~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Panthenol~0.45–0.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Sodium pca~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Magnesium pca~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Magnesium pca

Zinc pca~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A compound that combines zinc with a hydrating ingredient PCA. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Can help calm down inflammation in skin. Could be helpful in reducing the formation of free radicals in skin. Might help to reduce fine lines in wrinkles, but solid evidence is missing

More about Zinc pca

Malachite extract~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-aging

A mineral that is claimed to be able to support collagen product in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is missing

More about Malachite extract

Manganese pca~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Often used as a part of an ingredient complex Physiogenyl together with Sodium PCA, Magnesium PCA and Zinc PCA. The manufacturer claims that it does more than attracting water, but there is no evidence or studies supporting this claim

More about Manganese pca

Tripeptide-1~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Tripeptide-1

Asiaticoside~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Madecassic acid~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Asiatic acid~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Myristyl glucoside~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Myristyl glucoside

Dimethicone crosspolymer~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product texture. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might be able to prevent moisture loss from its surface

More about Dimethicone crosspolymer

Cetearyl glucoside~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Xanthan gum~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Isohexadecane~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Propylene glycol~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Glyceryl polyacrylate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to create a nice product texture and spread the product more easily on the skin

More about Glyceryl polyacrylate

Dimethiconol~0.25–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that makes products more spreadable and keeps skin smooth. Helps to add gloss to skin and may visually fill in fine lines/wrinkles for short time

More about Dimethiconol

Polysorbate 60~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Tromethamine~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Disodium edta~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

1,2-hexanediol~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Bht~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Bht

Ingredient list view

Water, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Cyclopentasiloxane, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Butylene glycol, Cetearyl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Avena sativa kernel flour, Pentylene glycol, Panthenol, Sodium pca, Magnesium pca, Zinc pca, Malachite extract, Manganese pca, Tripeptide-1, Asiaticoside, Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid, Myristyl glucoside, Dimethicone crosspolymer, Cetearyl glucoside, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Xanthan gum, Isohexadecane, Propylene glycol, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Dimethiconol, Polysorbate 60, Tromethamine, Disodium edta, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Bht

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Payot - Cica Expert Speed Recovery Skincare" can work well for skin moisturization. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Payot - Cica Expert Speed Recovery Skincare ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol, glycerin, magnesium pca, manganese pca and sodium pca) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Tripeptide-1, butyrospermum parkii butter, dimethiconol, cetearyl alcohol and cyclopentasiloxane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

This moistruizer also contains peptides (tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.50%). Peptides is a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of amino-acids. Our skin produces peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of peptides is, but it is very likely that peptides in skincare are helpful. They might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
This formulation also includes actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (its other name is Gotu Kola): madecassic acid 0.20% - 0.35%, asiatic acid 0.15% - 0.30% and asiaticoside 0.15% - 0.30% The Centella Asiatica actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.

Irritation risk

There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.