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Paula's choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Gloss Balm Lip Treatment
Paula's choice

Paula's choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Gloss Balm Lip Treatment

Efficacy87/100IrritancyLow
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
19 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“intensely hydrate lips”
Source: Sephora CA

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, butyrospermum parkii butter.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-38

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2Key active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface~3.9–5.9%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.6–2.3%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.8–2.7%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–1.15%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-38HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.95%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.8–1.2%
Sesamum indicum seed extractKey activeEffect: HighPlant oil that due to its high content of linoleic acid can help support skin's barrier function improving its hydration~0.35–0.85%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.6%
Synthetic beeswaxKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~2–3%
Diisostearyl malateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin~4.5–6.7%
Ethylhexyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture~0.95–1.45%
Prunus domestica seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.7%
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin~1.2–1.7%
Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~23–34%
Tribehenin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.7%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.4–0.9%
Portulaca pilosa extractEffect: Low~0.35–0.85%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.4%
Anti-aging
5 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“smooth lines”
Source: Sephora CA

This product contains palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-38. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.5–1.15%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-38Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.95%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.6–2.3%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
9 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 9 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Ci 15850A red colorantHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
Diisostearyl malateHelps to soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~4.5–6.7%est.
Glyceryl behenateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~2.8–4.2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.8–2.7%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.8–1.2%est.
Portulaca pilosa extract—Medium~0.35–0.85%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Prunus domestica seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.1–0.4%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.6–2.3%est.
Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture3/5~0.95–1.45%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Hydrogenated polyisobutene~23–34%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Polybutene~4.9–7.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Polybutene
Diisostearyl malate~4.5–6.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Diisostearyl malate
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2~3.9–5.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface

More about Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2
Glyceryl behenate~2.8–4.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl behenate
Synthetic beeswax~2–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Synthetic beeswax
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.8–2.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.6–2.3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate~1.2–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Cetearyl ethylhexanoate
Ethylhexyl palmitate~0.95–1.45%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Ethylhexyl palmitate
Ricinus communis seed oil~0.8–1.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.5–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.5–1.15%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl tripeptide-38~0.4–0.95%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-38
Tridecapeptide-1~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tridecapeptide-1
Sesamum indicum seed extract~0.35–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil that due to its high content of linoleic acid can help support skin's barrier function improving its hydration

More about Sesamum indicum seed extract
Portulaca pilosa extract~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizing
More about Portulaca pilosa extract
Pentylene glycol~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Prunus domestica seed oil~0.3–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus domestica seed oil
Water~0.15–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Sodium hyaluronate~0.15–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Tribehenin~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tribehenin
Sorbitan isostearate~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Hydrogenated castor oil
Not recognized
Lactic acid~0.1–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Tocopherol~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Sucrose cocoate~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sucrose cocoate
Vanillin~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Vanillin
Ci 15850~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A red colorant

More about Ci 15850
Ingredient list view

Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Polybutene, Diisostearyl malate, Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, Glyceryl behenate, Synthetic beeswax, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Ethylhexyl palmitate, Ricinus communis seed oil, Dimethyl isosorbide, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Tridecapeptide-1, Sesamum indicum seed extract, Portulaca pilosa extract, Pentylene glycol, Prunus domestica seed oil, Water, Sodium hyaluronate, Tribehenin, Sorbitan isostearate, Unknown, Lactic acid, Tocopherol, Sucrose cocoate, Vanillin, Ci 15850

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 14 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticssemanticscholar.org
  2. 2
    Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Safety assessment of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1 as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Productionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Paula's choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Gloss Balm Lip Treatment
Paula's choicePro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Gloss Balm Lip Treatment
Buy at Paula's Choice US$19.20Amazon

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Buy at Paula's Choice US$19.20Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.