Paula's choice

Paula's choice Calm Restoring Moisturizer normal to dry skin Full size

Name: Paula's choice - Calm Restoring Moisturizer normal to dry skin Full size
Brand: Paula's choice

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Ceramide np, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil + 20 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Calm Restoring Moisturizer normal to dry skin Full size”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide np

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~4.4–5.3%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.5–0.75%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.3–2.8%

Hydrolyzed jojoba proteinKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.6–0.9%

Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.35–0.6%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.7–1.05%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.55–0.8%

Phenyl trimethiconeKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~0.95–1.15%

Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprateKey activeEffect: Medium~1.4–1.7%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.6–1.9%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.3–0.55%

Tridecyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Whey protein· EmollientEffect: LowA protein derived from milk. In skincare products, might help to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4.8–5.8%

Tridecyl trimellitate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.4%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3–3.7%

Myristyl myristateUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~0.3–0.55%

PetrolatumUnder-dosedEffect: HighOne of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss~1.9–2.3%

Linoleic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.4–0.65%

Avena sativa kernel extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.35–0.65%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.75%

Anti-aging

Decarboxy carnosine hcl, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate + 1 more

Limited evidence

What the product description says

“The silky, cream formula minimises the appearance of wrinkles and leaves skin hydrated, smooth and radiant.”

Source: Paula's Choice UK

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - decarboxy carnosine hcl - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient decarboxy carnosine hcl might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Decarboxy carnosine hclEffect: LowMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.25–0.45%

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high~0.45–0.65%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Decarboxy carnosine hcl, Avena sativa kernel extract + 2 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (decarboxy carnosine hcl) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Decarboxy carnosine hclKey activeEffect: MediumMight be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.75%

Avena sativa kernel extractEffect: Low, below effective doseAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~0.35–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

15 flagged ingredients

Medium risk

We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~4.4–5.3%est.

Tridecyl trimellitateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.2–1.4%est.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

Tridecyl stearateUsed to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.3–0.5%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Sorbic acidA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.6–1.9%est.

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Alternatives

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Regimen Lab C.R.E.A.M

Higher efficacy · 100/10050% match

$44.00

Experiment Buffer Jelly

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Ethylhexyl stearate~4.8–5.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate

Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~4.4–5.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil

Butylene glycol~3–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Glycerin~2.3–2.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Petrolatum~1.9–2.3%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss

More about Petrolatum

Cetearyl alcohol~1.6–1.9%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate~1.4–1.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

More about Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate

Tridecyl trimellitate~1.2–1.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tridecyl trimellitate

Phenyl trimethicone~0.95–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture

More about Phenyl trimethicone

(hydration), etanorulayh muidos…

Not recognized

Ceramide np~0.7–1.05%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Cholesterol~0.6–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Tocopherol~0.5–0.75%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Squalane~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

A derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very high

More about Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate

Dimethicone~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Polysorbate 60~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Hydrolyzed jojoba protein~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed jojoba protein

Avena sativa kernel extract~0.35–0.65%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Whey protein~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A protein derived from milk. In skincare products, might help to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Whey protein

Tridecyl stearate~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Tridecyl stearate

Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate

Myristyl myristate~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate

Linoleic acid~0.4–0.65%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid

Linolenic acid~0.35–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid

Decarboxy carnosine hcl~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Might be able to protect the skin from free radicals, but further evidence of effectiveness is needed

More about Decarboxy carnosine hcl

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Cetearyl glucoside~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside

Cetyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax

Aminomethyl propanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the pH in formulations

More about Aminomethyl propanol

Disodium edta~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Benzoic acid~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid

Chlorphenesin~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Sorbic acid~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Sorbic acid

Ingredient list view

Water, Ethylhexyl stearate, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Petrolatum, Cetearyl alcohol, Dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, Tridecyl trimellitate, Phenyl trimethicone, Unknown, Ceramide np, Cholesterol, Tocopherol, Squalane, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Hydrolyzed jojoba protein, Avena sativa kernel extract, Hydrogenated lecithin, Whey protein, Tridecyl stearate, Neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Myristyl myristate, Linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, Decarboxy carnosine hcl, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Cetearyl glucoside, Cetyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Aminomethyl propanol, Disodium edta, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Chlorphenesin, Sorbic acid

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Paula's Choice UK

≈ $34.22

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Paula's choiceCalm Restoring Moisturizer normal to dry skin Full sizeYOUR PRODUCT	Regimen LabC.R.E.A.M	ExperimentBuffer Jelly
Match	—	50%	50%
Price	$34.22	$44.00+$9.78	$31.99−$2.23
Shared key ingredients	—	7 of 14	7 of 14
Key difference	—	Isosorbide Dicaprylate	Jojoba Esters
Irritancy	Medium	Medium	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Paula's choice - Calm Restoring Moisturizer normal to dry skin Full size" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (glycerin and butylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Ceramide np, cholesterol, linolenic acid, dimethicone and phenyl trimethicone in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.70% - 1.05%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: myristyl myristate, oatmeal extract and vitamin e

Irritation risk

This product does not contain known common irritants and is suitable for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.