Pai Skincare Skincare Curtain Call Rosehip and Strawberry Leaf The Brightening Mask

Pai Skincare Skincare Curtain Call Rosehip and Strawberry Leaf The Brightening Mask

Efficacy37/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Moisturizing
Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glycerin + 9 more
Works
What the product description says
“Designed to hydrate and regenerate the visage, the formula is fuelled by glow-boosting ingredients.”
Source: Lookfantastic

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: fructose, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~5.2–7.8%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.5–5.3%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~2.1–3.2%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.7–2.6%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~1.4–2.1%
Prunus domestica seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1–1.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.55–1.25%
InulinKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking~0.35–0.75%
FructoseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.05–0.2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.35%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.15–0.65%
Evens skin tone
Lactic acid ~0.15–0.65%
Under-dosed
What the product description says
“Strawberry leaf extract then brightens in a flash while comforting sea buckthorn and prebiotic inulin work to repair, soften and protect for a sense of calm.”
Source: Cultbeauty

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.15–0.65%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
2 strong irritants: Sodium anisate, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Medium risk
We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Sodium anisateUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Hydrogenated coco-glyceridesHelps oil and water mix together while creating a nice finish on the skinMedium~2.8–4.1%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~2.1–3.2%est.
Prunus domestica seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1–1.5%est.
Rosa canina fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lackingMedium~0.4–0.9%est.
Sodium levulinateA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lackingMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.15–0.65%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.5%est.
Acacia senegal gumHelps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product textureMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.55–1.25%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.7–2.6%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~1.4–2.1%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Helianthus annuus seed oil~5.2–7.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Glycerin~3.5–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Hydrogenated coco-glycerides~2.8–4.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps oil and water mix together while creating a nice finish on the skin

More about Hydrogenated coco-glycerides
Ricinus communis seed oil~2.1–3.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Cetearyl alcohol~1.7–2.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate se~1.4–2.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Kaolin~1.5–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingAnti-blemish

A type of clay that consists mainly of aluminum silicate. Helps absorb oil and creates a thicker product consistency. Can be used to add a white color

More about Kaolin
Prunus domestica seed oil~1–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Prunus domestica seed oil
Rosa canina seed extract~0.85–1.25%
Formula
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.55–1.25%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Rosa canina fruit extract~0.4–0.9%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence is lacking

More about Rosa canina fruit extract
Almond/borage/linseed/olive acids/glycerides~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Inulin~0.35–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking

More about Inulin
Sodium levulinate~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium levulinate
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lacking

More about Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract
Lactic acid~0.15–0.65%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate
Sodium anisate~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Sodium anisate
Acacia senegal gum~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture

More about Acacia senegal gum
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium phytate~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Tocopherol~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Fragaria vesca leaf extract~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Fructose~0.05–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructose
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Ingredient list view

Water, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Glycerin, Hydrogenated coco-glycerides, Ricinus communis seed oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate se, Kaolin, Prunus domestica seed oil, Rosa canina seed extract, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Rosa canina fruit extract, Almond/borage/linseed/olive acids/glycerides, Inulin, Sodium levulinate, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extract, Lactic acid, Sodium dehydroacetate, Sodium anisate, Acacia senegal gum, Xanthan gum, Sodium phytate, Tocopherol, Fragaria vesca leaf extract, Fructose, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Pai SkincareSkincare Curtain Call Rosehip and Strawberry Leaf The Brightening MaskYOUR PRODUCTQ+AVitamin A.C.E Warming Face Maskgrace & stellaGrace and Stella Dead Sea Mud MaskOsmosis +BeautyBarrier Repair Mask
Match—38%38%37%
Price—$11.00$14.17—
Shared key ingredients—4 of 74 of 73 of 7
Key difference—Fragaria Ananassa Seed OilJojoba OilAstrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
Irritancy Medium Low Low Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 18 studies and safety reviews.

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Pai Skincare Skincare Curtain Call Rosehip and Strawberry Leaf The Brightening Mask
Pai SkincareSkincare Curtain Call Rosehip and Strawberry Leaf The Brightening Mask

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.