NEOSTRATA High Potency Cream AHA 20

NEOSTRATA High Potency Cream AHA 20

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

4 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
Lactobionic acid, Glycolic acid
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“18% Glycolic Acid: known to help even skin tone, is a natural component of sugar cane that normalizes the skin’s exfoliation process, refining the appearance of pore size and smoothing the look of fine lines and wrinkles as it retexturizes skin.”
Source: Neostrata

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains glycolic acid, lactobionic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Lactobionic acidKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity2%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid18%
Moisturizing
Lactobionic acid, Arginine + 8 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“A high strength exfoliating and hydrating cream that provides skin-smoothing benefits with dual-antioxidant protection to help defend against future damage.”
Source: Neostrata

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, propylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: lactobionic acid

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~5.3–7.9%
Lactobionic acidHeroEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity2%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.7–2.5%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2–3%
IsododecaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture~1–1.5%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.2–0.75%
Isohexadecane· EmollientEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~1–1.5%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.3–1.9%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.45–1.05%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.2–0.8%
Evens skin tone
Glycolic acid, Lactobionic acid
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“High strength. Even higher performance. A favorite amongst long-time NEOSTRATA customers, this highly potent, silky cream is formulated to reduce the appearance of uneven skin tone and help regenerate and revitalize skin damaged from cumulative UV exposure while helping to prevent future damage.”
Source: Neostrata

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: glycolic acid, lactobionic acid

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid18%
Lactobionic acidKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity2%
Exfoliation
Lactobionic acid, Glycolic acid
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“A high strength exfoliating and hydrating cream that provides skin-smoothing benefits with dual-antioxidant protection to help defend against future damage.”
Source: Neostrata

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: glycolic acid, lactobionic acid.

Lactobionic acidKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity2%
Glycolic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid18%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Lactobionic acid, Bisabolol + 1 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (lactobionic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Lactobionic acidKey activeEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity2%
BisabololEffect: LowAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~2.6–4%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.1–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Glycolic acid
Medium risk
We flagged 10 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Glycolic acidAn alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acidHigh18%
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Sodium bisulfiteA preservativeHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Ammonium hydroxideHelps adjust the product pHMedium~23–34%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~3.7–5.6%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.5–1%est.
Lactobionic acidA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticityMedium2%
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenicMedium~0.5–1.2%est.
Sodium sulfiteHelps stabilize and preserve a product formulationMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.1–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Myristic acidHelps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.5–1.2%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Ammonium hydroxide~23–34%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps adjust the product pH

More about Ammonium hydroxide
Water~12–18%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Arginine~5.3–7.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Bht~3.7–5.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Bisabolol~2.6–4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Cetyl alcohol~2–3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Dimethicone~1.7–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Disodium edta~0.5–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Glyceryl stearate~1.3–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Glycolic acid18%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemish

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid

More about Glycolic acid
Isododecane~1–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and can decrease moisture loss. Helps create a nice product texture

More about Isododecane
Isohexadecane~1–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane
Isostearic acid~0.9–1.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a nice product texture

More about Isostearic acid
Lactobionic acid2%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed dead cells from the surface of the skin revealing a smoother, more even skin. PHAs tend to be gentler on the skin compared to AHAs (for example, glycolic acid). It also has hydrating properties and helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help calm down inflammation in skin and support restoration of the barrier function. It has an anti-oxidant effect as well. It can help reduce fine line, wrinkles and improve skin elasticity

More about Lactobionic acid
Methylglucamine~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Methylparaben~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Methylparaben
Myristic acid~0.5–1.2%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic

More about Myristic acid
Palmitic acid~0.45–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Peg-100 stearate~0.5–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Propylene glycol~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Propylparaben~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Propylparaben
Sodium bisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative

More about Sodium bisulfite
Sodium sulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize and preserve a product formulation

More about Sodium sulfite
Sorbitan stearate~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sorbitan stearate
Stearic acid~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Tocopheryl acetate~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Xanthan gum~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Ingredient list view

Ammonium hydroxide, Water, Arginine, Bht, Bisabolol, Cetyl alcohol, Dimethicone, Disodium edta, Glyceryl stearate, Glycolic acid, Isododecane, Isohexadecane, Isostearic acid, Lactobionic acid, Methylglucamine, Methylparaben, Myristic acid, Palmitic acid, Peg-100 stearate, Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer, Propylene glycol, Propylparaben, Sodium bisulfite, Sodium sulfite, Sorbitan stearate, Stearic acid, Tocopheryl acetate, Xanthan gum

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
NEOSTRATAHigh Potency Cream AHA 20YOUR PRODUCTU BeautyThe Super Hydrator SachetReversaSkin Smoothing CreamExuvianceTriple Microdermabrasion Face Polish
Match—52%52%51%
Price$50.12—$28.58−$21.54$62.40+$12.28
Shared key ingredients—2 of 53 of 53 of 5
Key difference—Acetyl Hexapeptide-37Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin
Irritancy Medium Medium Low Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"NEOSTRATA - High Potency Cream AHA 20" is effective for: Exfoliation, Evens skin tone, Anti-aging and Moisturizing

This product could be helpful for: Anti-inflammatory, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

  • Exfoliating acids (glycolic acid 18.00% (declared)). In this concentration, they will have a noticeable exfoliating effect. They can also have an anti-aging effect and stimulate collagen production in a long-run. PHAs (lactobionic acid 2.00% (declared)) in this product also work for improving skin hydration. They might be even able to stimulate the production of skin's natural humectants and support the healthy skin microbiome.
  • Humectants (arginine 5.80% - 8.60%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails for 114.52CA$ in Canada, for 179.87A$ in Australia, for 62.00$ in the United States and for 36.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

NEOSTRATA High Potency Cream AHA 20
NEOSTRATAHigh Potency Cream AHA 20

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.