NEOGEN X SUR.MEDIC Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule

NEOGEN X SUR.MEDIC Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Copper tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1 + 34 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Improves skin barrier for long-lasting hydration”
Source: Lila Beauty

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, mannitol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: phenyl trimethicone, oenothera biennis oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, ceramide np, copper tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-11, hexapeptide-9, madecassoside, nonapeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, panthenol, tripeptide-1

Copper tripeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~1.3–1.6%
Tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.1–1.3%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.75–1.15%
Hexapeptide-11HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.65%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.6%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.65%
Hexapeptide-9Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Nonapeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~1.9–2.3%
GuaiazuleneKey activeEffect: HighA blue-colored ingredient that is traditionally used as a colorant. It has anti-inflammatory properties. For example, it is successfully used to treat diaper rash for new borns. It can help support the skin barrier by reducing inflammation~1.6–1.9%
Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.35%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Phenyl trimethiconeKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~0.2–0.4%
Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.35%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%
Oenothera biennis oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Propolis extractKey activeEffect: MediumA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.2–0.35%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.15–0.25%
AgarEffect: LowPolysaccharide derived from seaweed. Used to create a thicker product consistency and might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.25–0.45%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.25–0.45%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilUnder-dosedSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~0.25–0.45%
Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.25–0.45%
Camellia sinensis seed oilUnder-dosedA plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.4%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.35%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.15–0.3%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Madecassoside, Camellia japonica flower extract + 14 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia japonica flower extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%
Camellia japonica flower extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.2–0.4%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~1.9–2.3%
Calendula officinalis extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.2–0.35%
Camellia japonica leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.2–0.35%
Oenothera biennis oilEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Propolis extractEffect: LowA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.2–0.35%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%
Camellia japonica seed extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.3%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.15–0.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.25–0.45%
Camellia sinensis seed oilEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.35%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.1–0.15%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Adenosine, Copper tripeptide-1 + 16 more
Works well

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8, asiaticoside, copper tripeptide-1, hexapeptide-11, hexapeptide-9, madecassoside, nonapeptide-1, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~1.9–2.3%
Copper tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.~1.3–1.6%
Tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~1.1–1.3%
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.75–1.15%
Hexapeptide-11Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.65%
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.65%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.35–0.6%
Hexapeptide-9Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
Nonapeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.25–0.45%
Camellia sinensis seed oilEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.2–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.2–0.35%
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.1–0.15%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Lavandula angustifolia flower extract, Mentha rotundifolia leaf extract + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 30 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Camellia japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Calendula officinalis extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Chamomilla recutita extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Propolis extractA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Lavandula angustifolia flower extractEssential oil that can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Mentha rotundifolia leaf extractUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oilAn essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Lavandula angustifolia oilAn essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Gardenia florida fruit extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating.High~0.15–0.3%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~2.3–2.8%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Camellia japonica seed extractA plant extract that might have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Oenothera biennis oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Camellia japonica leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Acacia senegal gumHelps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
AgarPolysaccharide derived from seaweed. Used to create a thicker product consistency and might help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Zea mays starchUsed to thicken the product's consistencyMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
Zea mays starchUsed to thicken the product's consistency3/5~0.2–0.35%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Dipropylene glycol~6.6–8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Isopentyldiol~4.2–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Isopentyldiol
1,2-hexanediol~2.3–2.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Polydecene~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Polydecene
Adenosine~1.9–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Guaiazulene~1.6–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A blue-colored ingredient that is traditionally used as a colorant. It has anti-inflammatory properties. For example, it is successfully used to treat diaper rash for new borns. It can help support the skin barrier by reducing inflammation

More about Guaiazulene
Copper tripeptide-1~1.3–1.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A naturally occurring peptide. One of the most studied peptides in dermatology. It is sometimes abbreviated GHK-Cu. Belongs to the class of carrier peptides. It stimulates both synthesis and breakdown of collagen in skin. It is released in skin wounds and inflammation to support healing. It accelerates wound-healing of the skin and can stimulate hair growth. There are preliminary studies that confirm that copper tripeptide can help support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles and decrease inflammation in skin.

More about Copper tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-1~1.1–1.3%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.75–1.15%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-2~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Tripeptide-2
Hexapeptide-11~0.45–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Hexapeptide-11
Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.35–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.35–0.65%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
Hexapeptide-9~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Hexapeptide-9
Nonapeptide-1~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Nonapeptide-1
Ceramide np~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Betula platyphylla japonica juice~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Camellia japonica seed extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties

More about Camellia japonica seed extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Camellia japonica flower extract~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Camellia japonica flower extract
Aloe barbadensis leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf extract
Calendula officinalis extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Calendula officinalis extract
Chamomilla recutita extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita extract
Propolis extract~0.2–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating

More about Propolis extract
Phellinus linteus extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Oenothera biennis oil~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Oenothera biennis oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Cupressus sempervirens oil~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Zinc oxide~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant

More about Zinc oxide
Beta-glucan~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Asiaticoside~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Madecassic acid~0.2–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid
Asiatic acid~0.2–0.35%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizing

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid
Lavandula angustifolia flower extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Essential oil that can be irritating

More about Lavandula angustifolia flower extract
Madecassoside~0.2–0.35%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Camellia sinensis seed oil~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Camellia sinensis seed oil
Camellia japonica leaf extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Camellia japonica leaf extract
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Persea gratissima oil~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Allantoin~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Mentha rotundifolia leaf extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha rotundifolia leaf extract
Calamine~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Calamine
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil
Panthenol~0.2–0.35%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Artemisia capillaris extract~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Alcohol denat.~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.
Butylene glycol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Octyldodeceth-16~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Octyldodeceth-16
Carbomer~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Tromethamine~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Cellulose gum~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create thicker product consistency and stabilize emulsions

More about Cellulose gum
Phenyl trimethicone~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture

More about Phenyl trimethicone
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Acacia senegal gum~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture

More about Acacia senegal gum
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Agar~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Polysaccharide derived from seaweed. Used to create a thicker product consistency and might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Agar
Mannitol~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol
Zea mays starch~0.2–0.35%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Mattifying

Used to thicken the product's consistency

More about Zea mays starch
Lavandula angustifolia oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Potential allergen and can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Lavandula angustifolia oil
Microcrystalline cellulose~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Exfoliation
More about Microcrystalline cellulose
Disodium edta~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Gardenia florida fruit extract~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating.

More about Gardenia florida fruit extract
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Maltodextrin~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Glycerin~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.15–0.3%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Lecithin~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Polysorbate 20~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.1–0.15%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Hydrogen dimethicone~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps the function of sunscreen and pigment ingredients in the formulation

More about Hydrogen dimethicone
Ingredient list view

Water, Dipropylene glycol, Isopentyldiol, 1,2-hexanediol, Polydecene, Adenosine, Guaiazulene, Copper tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Ceramide np, Betula platyphylla japonica juice, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Camellia japonica seed extract, Centella asiatica extract, Camellia japonica flower extract, Aloe barbadensis leaf extract, Calendula officinalis extract, Chamomilla recutita extract, Propolis extract, Phellinus linteus extract, Oenothera biennis oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Cupressus sempervirens oil, Zinc oxide, Beta-glucan, Asiaticoside, Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid, Lavandula angustifolia flower extract, Madecassoside, Camellia sinensis seed oil, Camellia japonica leaf extract, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Persea gratissima oil, Allantoin, Mentha rotundifolia leaf extract, Calamine, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, Panthenol, Artemisia capillaris extract, Alcohol denat., Butylene glycol, Octyldodeceth-16, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Cellulose gum, Phenyl trimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia senegal gum, Sodium hyaluronate, Agar, Mannitol, Zea mays starch, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Microcrystalline cellulose, Disodium edta, Gardenia florida fruit extract, Hydrogenated lecithin, Maltodextrin, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Hydrogen dimethicone

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🇦🇺 Lila Beauty (AU)80 ml
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
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Match—64%54%53%
Price———$58.80
Shared key ingredients—33 of 3313 of 3315 of 33
Key difference—Ceramide 3NiacinamideNiacinamide
Irritancy High High Medium Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ——
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Product summary

"Neogen - Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule" is effective for: Moisturizing and Anti-aging

Ingredient callouts

  • Ceramides (ceramide np 0.25% - 0.50%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • Peptides (nonapeptide-1 0.25% - 0.45%, hexapeptide-9 0.25% - 0.50%, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 0.25% - 0.50%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.35% - 0.65%, acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.35% - 0.60%, hexapeptide-11 0.45% - 0.65%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.75% - 1.15%, tripeptide-1 1.10% - 1.30% and copper tripeptide-1 1.30% - 1.60%). There are many different kind of Peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of aminoacids. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective Peptides are in skincare, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. They might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, Peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
  • Adenosine 1.90% - 2.30%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassoside 0.20% - 0.35%, asiatic acid 0.20% - 0.35%, madecassic acid 0.20% - 0.35% and asiaticoside 0.15% - 0.30% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
  • Humectants (glycerin 0.15% - 0.25%, mannitol 0.20% - 0.35%, sodium hyaluronate 0.20% - 0.35%, hexapeptide-9 0.25% - 0.50% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.35% - 0.60%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails for 31.90A$ in Australia.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 60 studies and safety reviews.

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NEOGEN X SUR.MEDIC Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule
NEOGEN X SUR.MEDICAzulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.