Mustela

Mustela Stelatopia Moisturizing Cream

Name: Mustela - Stelatopia Moisturizing Cream
Brand: Mustela

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing

Glycerin, Glycine + 3 more

Good evidence

What the product description says

“Stelatopia Moisturizing Cream”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, glycine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, cetearyl alcohol.

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.5–1.15%

GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.95–1.4%

Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiablesKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.1–0.45%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.4–5.1%

Hydrogenated castor oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.45–1.05%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate

Medium risk

We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Coco-glucosideUsed as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritatingHigh~8.5–12.7%est.

Sodium hydroxymethylglycinateA preservative. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinateUsed as a cleansing agent. Helps water and oil mix togetherMedium~3.7–5.5%est.

Hydroxypropyl guarUsed to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize emulsionsMedium~2.1–3.1%est.

Sodium cocoyl isethionateHelps water and oil mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agentMedium~1.7–2.6%est.

Zea mays starchUsed to thicken the product's consistencyMedium~1.4–2.1%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~1.2–1.8%est.

Hydrogenated castor oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.45–1.05%est.

Tetrasodium edtaHelps to stabilize the product formulationMedium~0.1–0.45%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Zea mays starchUsed to thicken the product's consistency3/5~1.4–2.1%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.4–5.1%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Coco-glucoside~8.5–12.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Cleansing

Used as a cleansing agent (surfactant) in cleansers. Helps water and oil mix together in lotions. Can be irritating

More about Coco-glucoside

Cetearyl alcohol~3.4–5.1%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate~3.7–5.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used as a cleansing agent. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate

Hydroxypropyl guar~2.1–3.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize emulsions

More about Hydroxypropyl guar

Sodium cocoyl isethionate~1.7–2.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Sodium cocoyl isethionate

Zea mays starch~1.4–2.1%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Mattifying

Used to thicken the product's consistency

More about Zea mays starch

Citric acid~1.2–1.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Glycine~0.95–1.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Sodium chloride~0.8–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride

Glycerin~0.5–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Hydrogenated castor oil~0.45–1.05%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Hydrogenated castor oil

Polyquaternium-10~0.3–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product finish

More about Polyquaternium-10

Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A preservative. Can be irritating

More about Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate

Tetrasodium edta~0.1–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to stabilize the product formulation

More about Tetrasodium edta

Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables~0.1–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables

Titanium dioxide~0.05–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Sodium hydroxide~0.05–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Ingredient list view

Water, Coco-glucoside, Cetearyl alcohol, Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, Hydroxypropyl guar, Sodium cocoyl isethionate, Zea mays starch, Citric acid, Glycine, Sodium chloride, Glycerin, Hydrogenated castor oil, Polyquaternium-10, Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, Tetrasodium edta, Helianthus annuus seed oil unsaponifiables, Titanium dioxide, Sodium hydroxide

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 10 studies and safety reviews.

1
In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Responseresearchgate.net
2
Allergen of the Year—Alkyl Glucosidepracticeupdate.com
3
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Cocoyl Isethionatejournals.sagepub.com
4
Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiencyjamanetwork.com
5
Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
6
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
7
Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Productionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
9
Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Augmentation of sebaceous lipogenesis by an ethanol extract of Grifola frondosa (Maitake mushroom) in hamsters in vivo and in vitroonlinelibrary.wiley.com

MustelaStelatopia Moisturizing Cream

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