PRODUCT REVIEW
MooGoo Skin Care Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Brightening Active Serum
Can it cause trouble?
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Works for
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
An antioxidant serum that targets pigmentation and sun damage Contains the maximum concentrations of well-researched ingredients An extra stable form of Vitamin C so it’s fresh and effective when it meets your skin Oil-soluble Vitamin C can penetrate deeper and more effectively into the skin Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is less irritating to skin than other forms of Vitamin C Includes a unique, innovative and naturally derived ingredient called Sepiwhite Sepiwhite works to inhibit melanin production to reduce the creation of future age spots Lactic Acid removes dead skin cells leaving behind a brighter, more radiant complexion
undecylenoyl phenylalanine
0.85% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone.
lactic acid
0.5% -
1.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
3.9% -
5.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
Moisturizing
glycine soja oil
0.2% -
0.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
glycine soja sterols
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An emollient that helps soften the skin
butyrospermum parkii butter
1.1% -
1.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Potential irritants
pullulan
1.2% -
1.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying
Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
undecylenoyl phenylalanine
0.85% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone
An amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cetearyl alcohol
2.7% -
4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
butyrospermum parkii butter
1.1% -
1.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Show more
User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
3.9% -
5.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Moisturizing
A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
lactic acid
0.5% -
1.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Show more
Potential irritants
pullulan
1.2% -
1.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying
Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect
undecylenoyl phenylalanine
0.85% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone
An amino-acid based compound that is effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help lighten sun spots and support more even skin tone.
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
cetearyl alcohol
2.7% -
4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
butyrospermum parkii butter
1.1% -
1.7%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Show more
All ingredients
glyceryl oleate citrate
5.5% -
8.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Glyceryl oleate citrate, Unknown, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Cetearyl alcohol, Xanthan gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium gum, Pullulan, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Undecylenoyl phenylalanine, Lactic acid, Tromethamine, Phospholipids, Glycine soja oil, Glycolipids, Glycine soja sterols, Tocopherol, Piroctone olamine, Citrus reticulata peel oil, Potassium sorbate
Sources
- Assessment of penetration of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate into biological membranes by molecular dynamics
- Stability evaluation of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in isolation and incorporated in cosmetic formulations using thermal analysis
- A new lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), prevents UV-induced skin pigmentation through its anti-oxidative properties
- New lipophilic pro-vitamin C, tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), suppresses senile lentigo through controlling of melanocytes-keratinocytes interaction
- A randomized, double‐blind, vehicle‐controlled study of a preparation containing undecylenoyl phenylalanine 2% in the treatment of solar lentigines