Liz Earle

Liz Earle Superskin Alt-Retinol Skin Paste

Name: Liz Earle - Superskin Alt-Retinol Skin Paste
Brand: Liz Earle

Efficacy62/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

20 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“The formula also contains kigelia fruit extract, shea butter and hyaluronic acid for up to 48 hours of moisturisation, leaving skin feeling nourished and hydrated.”

Source: Boots

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Astrocaryum murumuru seed butterKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could be comedogenic due to the myrisic acid content~0.2–0.35%

Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.45–0.7%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.4–2.9%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.5–5.4%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.15–0.3%

Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.2–0.4%

Rosa rubiginosa seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighPlant oil that due to the high content of linoleic acid can support skin's barrier function and reduce moisture loss~1.4–1.7%

Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~3.1–3.8%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.7–4.5%

Canola oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.6%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.2–0.4%

Gossypium herbaceum seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.~0.3–0.55%

Linum usitatissimum seed oilEffect: Low~0.15–0.25%

Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.5–1.9%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.4%

Ethylhexyl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.4%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.45–0.65%

PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Anti-aging

3 ingredients credited for this claim

Limited support

What the product description says

“This powerful blend is enriched with Bidens pilosa, a plant-based alternative to retinol that works by mimicking retinol’s mechanism of action to smooth the appearance of deeper lines and wrinkles whilst being kind to the skin.”

Source: Boots

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.This ingredient - butyrospermum parkii butter - could be helpful for preventing or repairing signs of aging in theory, but there is no evidence that it actually works.

This ingredient vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin and help it fight off some of the sun damage.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~2.4–2.9%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.2–0.35%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 10 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~3.1–3.8%

Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.45–0.7%

Daucus carota sativa seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect~0.25–0.4%

Daucus carota sativa root extractEffect: LowCarrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.2–0.35%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.3%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.15–0.3%

Anthemis nobilis flower oilEffect: Low, below effective doseAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

9 strong irritants: Rosa rubiginosa seed oil, Alcohol denat. + 7 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Rosa rubiginosa seed oilPlant oil that due to the high content of linoleic acid can support skin's barrier function and reduce moisture lossHigh~1.4–1.7%est.

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.6–0.85%est.

Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil—High~0.3–0.55%est.

Lavandula hybrida oilPlant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergenHigh~0.3–0.5%est.

Anthemis nobilis flower oilAn essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skinHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier functionMedium~3.1–3.8%est.

Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.5–1.9%est.

Canola oilA plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Astrocaryum murumuru seed butterHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could be comedogenic due to the myrisic acid contentMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.2–0.35%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.3%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~2.4–2.9%est.

Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.7–4.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.5–5.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Cetearyl alcohol~3.7–4.5%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil~3.1–3.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil

Butyrospermum parkii butter~2.4–2.9%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Propanediol~1.9–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~1.5–1.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate

Rosa rubiginosa seed oil~1.4–1.7%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Plant oil that due to the high content of linoleic acid can support skin's barrier function and reduce moisture loss

More about Rosa rubiginosa seed oil

Ethylhexyl stearate~1.1–1.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Ethylhexyl stearate

Kigelia africana fruit extract~0.75–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Kigelia africana fruit extract

Alcohol denat.~0.6–0.85%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.

Maltodextrin~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin

Borago officinalis seed oil~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil

Glyceryl stearate~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Canola oil~0.35–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Canola oil

Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.3–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Cottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.

More about Gossypium herbaceum seed oil

Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil

Lavandula hybrida oil~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Plant extract that can be irritating and is a known allergen

More about Lavandula hybrida oil

Anthemis nobilis flower oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An essential oil that is used as a fragrance and can be irritating. It might have some anti-oxidant effect in skin

More about Anthemis nobilis flower oil

Punica granatum flower extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Punica granatum flower extract

Daucus carota sativa seed oil~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect

More about Daucus carota sativa seed oil

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil

Tocopherol~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Jojoba esters~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters

Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could be comedogenic due to the myrisic acid content

More about Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter

Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Panthenol~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Linum usitatissimum seed oil

Cetyl alcohol~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax

Bidens pilosa extract~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Bidens pilosa extract

Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Bisabolol~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Linalool~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Parfum~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract

Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Geraniol~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Limonene~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Citric acid~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Ci 75130~0.05–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ci 75130

Beta-carotene~0.05–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl alcohol, Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Rosa rubiginosa seed oil, Ethylhexyl stearate, Kigelia africana fruit extract, Alcohol denat., Maltodextrin, Borago officinalis seed oil, Glyceryl stearate, Canola oil, Gossypium herbaceum seed oil, Citrus aurantium amara leaf/twig oil, Lavandula hybrida oil, Anthemis nobilis flower oil, Punica granatum flower extract, Daucus carota sativa seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Tocopherol, Jojoba esters, Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter, Phenoxyethanol, Panthenol, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Cetyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Bidens pilosa extract, Caprylyl glycol, Bisabolol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Linalool, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Parfum, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Tocopheryl acetate, Geraniol, Limonene, Citric acid, Ci 75130, Beta-carotene