Crème de la Mer

Crème de la Mer The Crème de Duet

Name: Crème de la Mer - The Crème de Duet
Brand: Crème de la Mer

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

20 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“This luxuriously rich cream immerses skin in deep, soothing moisture, helping heal dryness.”

Source: Bluemercury

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cera microcristallina, algae extract.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol, paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum

PanthenolHeroEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.3–0.7%

Algae extractKey activeEffect: HighPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~23–34%

Cera microcristallinaKey activeEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from its surface and create a thicker product consistency~1.7–2.5%

PetrolatumHeroEffect: HighOne of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss~4.7–7%

CyanocobalaminKey activeEffect: HighCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.3–0.75%

Sesamum indicum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function~1–1.5%

GlycerinKey activeEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.2–4.9%

Paraffinum liquidumHeroEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~5.1–7.7%

Medicago sativa seed powderKey activeEffect: MediumMight help soften the upper layer of the skin and help thicken the product formulation. It might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.5–1.15%

Decyl oleateKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.9%

Magnesium gluconateEffect: LowA mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking~0.35–0.85%

IsohexadecaneEffect: LowImproves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent~2.8–4.2%

Potassium gluconateEffect: LowA mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking~0.45–1%

Calcium gluconateEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product~0.4–0.95%

OctyldodecanolEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.35–0.85%

Lanolin alcoholEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating~1.3–1.9%

ParaffinEffect: LowPrevents water loss from the skin surface and thickens the product consistency~0.3–0.7%

NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: HighA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.35–0.75%

Copper gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.4–0.95%

Zinc gluconateUnder-dosedEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.35–0.8%

Anti-aging

4 ingredients credited for this claim

Limited support

What the product description says

“Lines and wrinkles are visibly softened.”

Source: Bluemercury

This product does not contain ingredients that are able to reduce fine lines and wrinkles or help with skin elasticity, but it can improve the look of the skin temporarily through moisturization. Well-moisturized skin might also be able to repair the sun damage better.

Algae extractEffect: LowPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~23–34%

NiacinUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect~0.35–0.75%

Copper gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing~0.4–0.95%

Zinc gluconateEffect: Low, below effective doseTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~0.35–0.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

11 strong irritants: Citrus aurantifolia fruit extract, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil + 9 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Citrus aurantifolia fruit extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~1.1–1.6%est.

Eucalyptus globulus leaf oilAn essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.6–1.35%est.

NiacinA form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effectHigh~0.35–0.75%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.75%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.7%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.65%est.

HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.6%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.5%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.1–0.45%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

Lanolin alcoholHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingMedium~1.3–1.9%est.

Medicago sativa seed powderMight help soften the upper layer of the skin and help thicken the product formulation. It might have some anti-oxidant effectMedium~0.5–1.15%est.

Copper gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missingMedium~0.4–0.95%est.

Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~0.35–0.8%est.

Tocopheryl succinateUsed to preserve the product formulationMedium~0.35–0.8%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.75%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet3/5~23–34%est.

Decyl oleateHelps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.4–0.9%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Algae extract~23–34%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet

More about Algae extract

Paraffinum liquidum~5.1–7.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum

Petrolatum~4.7–7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss

More about Petrolatum

Glycerin~3.2–4.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Isohexadecane~2.8–4.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Improves the texture of the product and helps soften the skin. Helps oil and water mix together and can be used as a cleansing agent

More about Isohexadecane

Microcrystalline wax~1.9–2.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Microcrystalline wax

Cera microcristallina~1.7–2.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss from its surface and create a thicker product consistency

More about Cera microcristallina

Lanolin alcohol~1.3–1.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Lanolin alcohol

Citrus aurantifolia fruit extract~1.1–1.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Citrus aurantifolia fruit extract

Sesamum indicum seed oil~1–1.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A good moisturizing plant oil. Due to the high linoleic acid content, it helps soften the upper layer of the skin, reduce water loss and support skin barrier function

More about Sesamum indicum seed oil

Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil~0.6–1.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil

Sesamum indicum seed powder~0.55–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sesamum indicum seed powder

Medicago sativa seed powder~0.5–1.15%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help soften the upper layer of the skin and help thicken the product formulation. It might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Medicago sativa seed powder

Helianthus annuus seedcake~0.85–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken the product consistency

More about Helianthus annuus seedcake

Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed meal~0.55–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps thicken the product texture

More about Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed meal

Sodium gluconate~0.45–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate

Potassium gluconate~0.45–1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking

More about Potassium gluconate

Copper gluconate~0.4–0.95%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing

More about Copper gluconate

Calcium gluconate~0.4–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and helps to improve appearance of the product

More about Calcium gluconate

Magnesium gluconate~0.35–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A mineral that might be able to support skin hydration, but convincing research on its effectiveness in topical skincare is lacking

More about Magnesium gluconate

Zinc gluconate~0.35–0.8%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAnti-blemishExfoliationAnti-aging

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate

Magnesium sulfate~0.35–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Magnesium sulfate

Paraffin~0.3–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Prevents water loss from the skin surface and thickens the product consistency

More about Paraffin

Tocopheryl succinate~0.35–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Used to preserve the product formulation

More about Tocopheryl succinate

Niacin~0.35–0.75%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

A form of vitamin B3. It is similar in action to niacinamide, but is more likely to cause red flashes in skin as the side effect

More about Niacin

Water~0.35–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Beta-carotene~0.35–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene

Decyl oleate~0.4–0.9%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Decyl oleate

Aluminum distearate~0.35–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Aluminum distearate

Octyldodecanol~0.35–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol

Citric acid~0.3–0.75%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid

Cyanocobalamin~0.3–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Can support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin

More about Cyanocobalamin

Magnesium stearate~0.35–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create a nice product texture

More about Magnesium stearate

Panthenol~0.3–0.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Limonene~0.2–0.75%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Geraniol~0.15–0.7%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Linalool~0.15–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Hydroxycitronellal~0.15–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal

Citronellol~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Benzyl salicylate~0.1–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate

Citral~0.15–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Alcohol denat.~0.1–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.

Parfum~0.1–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Ingredient list view

Algae extract, Paraffinum liquidum, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Microcrystalline wax, Cera microcristallina, Lanolin alcohol, Citrus aurantifolia fruit extract, Sesamum indicum seed oil, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Sesamum indicum seed powder, Medicago sativa seed powder, Helianthus annuus seedcake, Prunus amygdalus dulcis seed meal, Sodium gluconate, Potassium gluconate, Copper gluconate, Calcium gluconate, Magnesium gluconate, Zinc gluconate, Magnesium sulfate, Paraffin, Tocopheryl succinate, Niacin, Water, Beta-carotene, Decyl oleate, Aluminum distearate, Octyldodecanol, Citric acid, Cyanocobalamin, Magnesium stearate, Panthenol, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Benzyl salicylate, Citral, Sodium benzoate, Alcohol denat., Parfum

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Bluemercury

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Crème de la MerThe Crème de DuetYOUR PRODUCT	Crème de la Mer	NiveaCreme - Body, Face & Hand Moisturizing Cream
Match	—	61%	50%
Price	$345.00	$23.99−$321.01	$1.29−$343.71
Shared key ingredients	—	10 of 11	4 of 11
Key difference	—	Zea Mays Oil	—
Irritancy	High	High	Medium
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—
	View product	Shop	Shop

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 21 studies and safety reviews.

1
A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oilncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Contact Sensitization to Emulsifying Agents: An Underrated Issue?journals.lww.com
4
Protein and oil composition of sesame seeds (Sesamum indicum, L.) grown in the Gizan area of Saudi Arabiatandfonline.com
5
Triglyceride composition of Sesamum indicum seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
6
Seed oil content and fatty acid composition in East African sesame (Sesamum indicum L.) accessions evaluated over 3 yearssciencedirect.com
7
Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Safety Assessment of Helianthus annuus (Sunflower)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
9
Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
10
Zinc salts in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disordersoatext.com
12
Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrinsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Safety Assessment of Magnesium Sulfate as Used in Cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
Importance of the form of topical vitamin E for prevention of photocarcinogenesispubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
17
Topical vitamin B12--a new therapeutic approach in atopic dermatitis-evaluation of efficacy and tolerability in a randomized placebo-controlled multicentre clinical trialpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
18
Superiority of a vitamin B12-containing emollient compared to a standard emollient in the maintenance treatment of mild-to-moderate plaque psoriasisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
20
Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
21
Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extractsec.europa.eu

Crème de la MerThe Crème de Duet

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