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La Daumé Anti-wrinkle smoothing eye cream
La Daumé

La Daumé Anti-wrinkle smoothing eye cream

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
29 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Anti-wrinkle smoothing eye cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: acetamidoethoxyethanol, alanine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl octapeptide-3, ceramide 3

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.95–1.15%
Acetyl octapeptide-3Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%
AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.15–0.3%
IsomaltKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Isopropyl myristateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic~4–4.9%
Lysine hclKey activeEffect: High~0.15–0.3%
MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.3%
Opuntia ficus-indica seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin's barrier function due to its high content of linoleic acid. It also has anti-microbial properties~1.1–1.4%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.2%
Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.15–0.3%
AcetamidoethoxyethanolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA new synthetic humectant that, according to the first tests, works better than glycerin in attracting moisture to the skin surface. It might be able to keep attracting water to the upper layer of the skin for longer compared with glycerin. Its texture is also nicer. Because of this, products with it are likely to be less sticky and more pleasant on application. It is unlikely to cause irritation and products with it work for sensitive skin. For best hydration results, it should be used at about 5-10% in a formulation. This ingredient is developed by a supplier Nouryon and is sold to skincare brands under the name Elfamoist AC.~3–3.7%
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharideKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Arginine hclKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.15–0.3%
Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
AtelocollagenKey activeEffect: HighA protein that helps to attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.7–7%
Ceramide 3Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.4%
Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.7–2%
GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.35–0.65%
InulinKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking~0.5–0.7%
GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.3–2.8%
Glyceryl stearate citrate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1.9–2.3%
Sorbitol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.15–0.3%
AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.55%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.25%
Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support
What the product description says
“Anti-wrinkle smoothing eye cream”
From product name

This product contains acetyl octapeptide-3, aspartic acid, atelocollagen. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Acetyl octapeptide-3Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%
Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%
AtelocollagenKey activeEffect: MediumA protein that helps to attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Parfum, Benzyl salicylate + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Cynara scolymus leaf extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Decyl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Phenethyl alcoholA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Isopropyl alcoholA drying alcohol. Can increase skin's sensitivity and cause dryness and irritationHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Chrysanthellum indicum extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~5.7–7%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMedium~1.4–1.8%est.
Opuntia ficus-indica seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin's barrier function due to its high content of linoleic acid. It also has anti-microbial propertiesMedium~1.1–1.4%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isopropyl myristateAn emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic3/5~4–4.9%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.3–2.8%est.
Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties2/5~1.4–1.8%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.7–7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Isopropyl myristate~4–4.9%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic

More about Isopropyl myristate
Acetamidoethoxyethanol~3–3.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A new synthetic humectant that, according to the first tests, works better than glycerin in attracting moisture to the skin surface. It might be able to keep attracting water to the upper layer of the skin for longer compared with glycerin. Its texture is also nicer. Because of this, products with it are likely to be less sticky and more pleasant on application. It is unlikely to cause irritation and products with it work for sensitive skin. For best hydration results, it should be used at about 5-10% in a formulation. This ingredient is developed by a supplier Nouryon and is sold to skincare brands under the name Elfamoist AC.

More about Acetamidoethoxyethanol
Cetearyl alcohol~2.3–2.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Glycerin~1.7–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Ceteareth-20~1.4–1.8%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties

More about Ceteareth-20
Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil~1.1–1.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin's barrier function due to its high content of linoleic acid. It also has anti-microbial properties

More about Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil
Squalane~0.95–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Phenoxyethanol~0.55–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Inulin~0.5–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking

More about Inulin
Isomalt~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Isomalt
Glycine~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine
Allantoin~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide
Glyceryl stearate citrate~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Glyceryl stearate citrate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Butylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Cynara scolymus leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties. It might be irritating

More about Cynara scolymus leaf extract
Decyl glucoside~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Decyl glucoside
Fructan~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Fructan
Parfum~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Peg-400~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Peg-400
Phenethyl alcohol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Phenethyl alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Ceramide 3~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide 3
Disodium edta~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Citric acid~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Glucose~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose
Coffea arabica seed extract~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Coffea arabica seed extract
Alanine~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine
Arginine hcl~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritation

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine hcl
Aspartic acid~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid
Glutamic acid~0.2–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid
Isopropyl alcohol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A drying alcohol. Can increase skin's sensitivity and cause dryness and irritation

More about Isopropyl alcohol
Leucine~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Leucine
Lysine hcl~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing
More about Lysine hcl
Mannitol~0.15–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol
Sodium lactate~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate
Sorbitol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Sorbitol
Tromethamine~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Valine~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Valine
Acetyl octapeptide-3~0.15–0.25%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl octapeptide-3
Sodium citrate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Atelocollagen~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A protein that helps to attract moisture to the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Atelocollagen
Benzyl salicylate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Chrysanthellum indicum extract~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Chrysanthellum indicum extract
Lecithin~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Lycium
Not recognized
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Isopropyl myristate, Acetamidoethoxyethanol, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Glycerin, Ceteareth-20, Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Inulin, Isomalt, Glycine, Allantoin, Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Tocopheryl acetate, Butylene glycol, Cynara scolymus leaf extract, Decyl glucoside, Fructan, Parfum, Peg-400, Phenethyl alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ceramide 3, Disodium edta, Citric acid, Glucose, Coffea arabica seed extract, Alanine, Arginine hcl, Aspartic acid, Glutamic acid, Isopropyl alcohol, Leucine, Lysine hcl, Mannitol, Sodium lactate, Sorbitol, Tromethamine, Valine, Acetyl octapeptide-3, Sodium citrate, Sodium hyaluronate, Atelocollagen, Benzyl salicylate, Chrysanthellum indicum extract, Lecithin, Unknown

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "La Daumé - Anti-wrinkle smoothing eye cream" can work well for skin moisturization. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Acetyl octapeptide-3, acetamidoethoxyethanol, alanine, aspartic acid and glutamic acid in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide 3, isopropyl myristate, opuntia ficus-indica seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride and squalane) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide 3 0.20% - 0.40%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
  • This moisturizer also contains Peptides (acetyl octapeptide-3 0.15% - 0.25%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: lecithin and allantoin

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 22 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    NATIONAL INDUSTRIAL CHEMICALS NOTIFICATION AND ASSESSMENT SCHEME (NICNAS) PUBLIC REPORT Acetamide, N-[2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethyl]- (INCI Name: Acetamidoethoxyethanol)industrialchemicals.gov.au
  2. 2
    ElfaMoist AC humectant (manufacturer's report)krahnnordics.com
  3. 3
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    The Antimicrobial and Wound Healing Potential of Opuntia ficus indica L. inermis Extracted Oil from Tunisiancbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Allergic contact dermatitis due to Opuntia ficus‐indica var. sabotenpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Probiotics and prebiotics potential for the care of skin, female urogenital tract, and respiratory tractlink.springer.com
La Daumé Anti-wrinkle smoothing eye cream
La DauméAnti-wrinkle smoothing eye cream
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