Kose

Kose X-Barrier Protect Repair Face Oil Balm Color SPF 50+ PA++++

Name: Kose - X-Barrier Protect Repair Face Oil Balm Color SPF 50+ PA++++
Brand: Kose

SPF 50Efficacy90/100IrritancyLow·2 UV filters

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Sun protection

SPF 50 · 2 UV filters

Broad spectrum

SPF 50Broad spectrumMineral filters

This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.

It is a mineral sunscreen. In other words, it contains non-organic UV filters. It will probably not sting your eyes but might leave a white cast.

This product can be considered "reef safe" because it does not contain the UV filters (oxybenzone and octinoxate) that can be harmful to coral reefs when present in the water in high concentrations.

UV spectrum

UVB290–320 nmUVA II320–340 nmUVA I340–400 nm

Titanium Dioxide

Zinc Oxide

FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount

Titanium Dioxide Mineral UVBUVA2 Photo-stable Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin~3.8–5.7%

Zinc Oxide Mineral UVBUVA Photo-stable A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant~11–17%

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Reef-safe

No oxybenzone or octinoxate — the two filters banned in Hawaii, Florida Keys and Aruba.

Moisturizing

Paraffinum liquidum, Petrolatum + 6 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“The Sekkisei brightening skin care series uses a Japanese herbal extract that gently moisturizes and protects skin while brightening the complexion.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: dimethicone, squalane.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.3–0.75%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.4–0.9%

Paraffinum liquidumHero· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~5.6–8.4%

PetrolatumHero· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighOne of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss~4.3–6.5%

Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearateEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~23–34%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.8%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.95–1.4%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.45–1.1%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Tocopherol, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Strong evidence

This product can help prevent early signs of skin aging because it offers a good level of broad spectrum sun protection. Sun damage is the main cause of premature skin aging, and protecting your skin from the sun is the best anti-aging strategy.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.5–1.15%

Evens skin tone

Not advertised by the brand · Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Strong evidence

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.95–1.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

2 flagged ingredients

Low risk

We flag 2 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Dextrin palmitateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~2.6–3.9%est.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.5–1.15%est.

Comedogenic

Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients

None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate~23–34%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate

Zinc oxide~11–17%

UV filterKey active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant

More about Zinc oxide

Paraffinum liquidum~5.6–8.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum

Petrolatum~4.3–6.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss

More about Petrolatum

Titanium dioxide~3.8–5.7%

UV filterKey active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Dextrin palmitate~2.6–3.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Dextrin palmitate

Silica~2.3–3.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica

Iron oxides~1.8–2.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides

Hydrogen dimethicone~1.5–2.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps the function of sunscreen and pigment ingredients in the formulation

More about Hydrogen dimethicone

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.95–1.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Pyridoxine dicaprylate~0.8–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Pyridoxine dicaprylate

Aphanothece sacrum polysaccharide~0.85–1.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Aphanothece sacrum polysaccharide

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.5–1.15%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Tocopherol~0.45–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Bread tenol

Not recognized

Butylene glycol~0.35–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Dipropylene glycol~0.2–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Dimethicone~0.4–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Squalane~0.3–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Triethoxycaprylylsilane~0.15–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A type of silicone that helps oil and water mix well together. Helps to disperse other ingredients, e.g. pigments, evenly in a formulation

More about Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Di(octyldodecyl/phytosteryl/behenyl) lauroyl glutamate

Not recognized

Water~0.1–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Aluminum hydroxide~0.15–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Is used to add opaque (non-transparent) appearance to formulations. Can be used to coat other ingredients for even dispersion. This is a different ingredient compared to the ones used in antipersperants (aluminium chloride and aluminium chlorohydrate)

More about Aluminum hydroxide

Mica~0.1–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica

Ingredient list view

Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, Zinc oxide, Paraffinum liquidum, Petrolatum, Titanium dioxide, Dextrin palmitate, Silica, Iron oxides, Hydrogen dimethicone, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Pyridoxine dicaprylate, Aphanothece sacrum polysaccharide, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Tocopherol, Unknown, Butylene glycol, Dipropylene glycol, Dimethicone, Squalane, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Unknown, Water, Aluminum hydroxide, Mica

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Product summary

The ingredient list suggests that "Kose - X-Barrier Protect Repair Face Oil Balm Color SPF 50+ PA++++" can provide reliable sun protection. It can protect from both UVA and UVB rays. This is great news because not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. (UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).

It contains good moisturizing ingredients and can double as a hydrating day cream. Like all broad-spectrum sunscreens, this product has an anti-aging benefit.

Sunscreen filters

This moisturizer is a mineral sunscreen. It uses titanium dioxide and zinc oxide for sun protection. Both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide almost never irritate even the most sensitive skin and eyes, but can leave a white cast.

Irritation risk

This product does not contain known common irritants and is suitable for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be low. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.