Isle of Paradise Express Ultra Dark Mousse

Isle of Paradise Express Ultra Dark Mousse

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
Edit

Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
7 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Hydrates and smooths the look of skin. . Avocado Oil.”
Source: Sephora

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, aloe barbadensis extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera oil, salvia hispanica seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.4–0.65%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3–3.7%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%
Salvia hispanica seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighChia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier~0.3–0.6%
Aloe barbadensis extract· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~0.45–0.7%
Persea gratissima oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.4–0.6%
Paraffinum liquidumUnder-dosedEffect: HighMineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroquinone.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

HydroquinoneHeroEffect: HighA potent anti-pigmentation active. It can have serious side-effects though and ideally is used under supervision of a doctor. It should not be used over a long period of time (over a year).~0.15–0.3%
Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.25–0.5%
Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
9 strong irritants: Citrus grandis peel oil, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil + 7 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 26 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
DihydroxyacetoneA self-tanning agentHigh~4.6–5.6%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~4.1–5%est.
Decyl glucosideHelps oil and water mix together. Can be irritatingHigh~1.7–2.1%est.
Citrus grandis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.4–0.6%est.
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oilAn essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
Mentha piperita oilUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Salvia officinalis oil—High~0.25–0.5%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Ci 15985A colorantHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Rosa damascena callus—High~0.25–0.5%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Benzophenone-3Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorptionHigh~0.35–0.65%est.
HydroquinoneA potent anti-pigmentation active. It can have serious side-effects though and ideally is used under supervision of a doctor. It should not be used over a long period of time (over a year).High~0.15–0.3%est.
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~2.2–2.7%est.
EthoxydiglycolHelps to improve the product consistencyMedium~1.8–2.2%est.
Aloe barbadensis extractTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~0.45–0.7%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.4–0.6%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Ci 17200A red colorantMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.25–0.5%est.
Ci 14700A colorantMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Comedogenic
2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
2 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.4–0.65%est.
Coal tar—3/5~0.2–0.35%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Dihydroxyacetone~4.6–5.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Tanning

A self-tanning agent

More about Dihydroxyacetone
Propylene glycol~4.1–5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Glycerin~3–3.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil~2.2–2.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil
Ethoxydiglycol~1.8–2.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps to improve the product consistency

More about Ethoxydiglycol
Decyl glucoside~1.7–2.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating

More about Decyl glucoside
Glycereth-26~1.4–1.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps create a thicker product consistency

More about Glycereth-26
Erythrulose~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Erythrulose
Methoxyphenyl t-butylphenyl propanediol~0.9–1.1%
Formula
Agastache mexicana flower/leaf/stem extract~0.65–1%
Formula
Tropaeolum majus flower/leaf/stem extract~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Panthenol~0.5–0.75%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Agave tequilana
Not recognized
Aloe barbadensis extract~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis extract
Citrus grandis peel oil~0.4–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus grandis peel oil
Cocos nucifera oil~0.4–0.65%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil
Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be very irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil
Mentha piperita oil~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance and can be irritating

More about Mentha piperita oil
Persea gratissima oil~0.4–0.6%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Salvia hispanica seed oil~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Chia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier

More about Salvia hispanica seed oil
Salvia officinalis oil~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Ascorbic acid~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Propanediol~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite
Parfum~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Benzoic acid~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid
Dehydroacetic acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Triethylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Ci 19140~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140
Fd&c
Not recognized
Ci 15985~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A colorant

More about Ci 15985
No.5
Not recognized
Ci 17200~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A red colorant

More about Ci 17200
Ci 15985~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A colorant

More about Ci 15985
Fd&c
Not recognized
Ci 19140~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140
No.6
Not recognized
Ci 42090~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Ci 14700~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant

More about Ci 14700
Rosa damascena callus~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Formaldehyde~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Formaldehyde
Paraffinum liquidum~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Mineral oil. One of the most effective and well studied occlusive and emollient moisturizing ingredients. Helps reduce moisture loss in skin and repair skin barrier function

More about Paraffinum liquidum
Retinyl palmitate~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Benzophenone-3~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Sun protection

Same as oxybenzone. Protects in the UVB and short UVA range. In small concentrations, used to stabilize product formulation. Can be irritating. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can penetrate the skin and get absorbed into bloodstream faster than other popular filters available in the US. The study that produced this finding did not address any potential health effects of the absorption

More about Benzophenone-3
Coal tar~0.2–0.35%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
More about Coal tar
Hydroquinone~0.15–0.3%
Hero · Evens skin toneIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin tone

A potent anti-pigmentation active. It can have serious side-effects though and ideally is used under supervision of a doctor. It should not be used over a long period of time (over a year).

More about Hydroquinone
Parfum~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Triclocarban1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Triclocarban
Triclosan~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Triclosan
Ingredient list view

Water, Dihydroxyacetone, Propylene glycol, Glycerin, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Ethoxydiglycol, Decyl glucoside, Glycereth-26, Erythrulose, Methoxyphenyl t-butylphenyl propanediol, Agastache mexicana flower/leaf/stem extract, Tropaeolum majus flower/leaf/stem extract, Panthenol, Unknown, Aloe barbadensis extract, Citrus grandis peel oil, Cocos nucifera oil, Eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, Mentha piperita oil, Persea gratissima oil, Salvia hispanica seed oil, Salvia officinalis oil, Ascorbic acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Propanediol, Sodium metabisulfite, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Dehydroacetic acid, Triethylene glycol, Ci 19140, Unknown, Ci 15985, Unknown, Ci 17200, Ci 15985, Unknown, Ci 19140, Unknown, Ci 42090, Ci 14700, Rosa damascena callus, Formaldehyde, Paraffinum liquidum, Retinyl palmitate, Benzophenone-3, Coal tar, Hydroquinone, Parfum, Triclocarban, Triclosan

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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Isle of Paradise - Express Ultra Dark Mousse" works well for moisturizing the skin. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Isle of Paradise - Express Ultra Dark Mousse ticks this box. Humectants in this product (panthenol, glycerin and aloe barbadensis extract) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Salvia hispanica seed oil and cocos nucifera oil in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • This product also contains vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.25% - 0.50%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
  • This moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.20% - 0.35%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 32.00$ up to 42.00$ in the United States and for 27.99£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
Isle of Paradise Express Ultra Dark Mousse
Isle of ParadiseExpress Ultra Dark Mousse

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.