Institut Moisture Defence Ultra Dry
Works for
2 of 2 advertised claims delivered
Moisturizing15 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“Moisture Defence Ultra Dry”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
cyclomethicone, dextran.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2
Anti-aging4 ingredients credited for this claimModerate support
“Fortified with Olive Fruit Oil and ProgelineTM (a patented biomimetic peptide), the lightweight, fast-absorbing moisturiser nourishes and conditions skin , whilst providing anti-ageing benefits to help improve elasticity and minimise the appearance of fine lines .”
This product contains trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy2 strong irritants: Pelargonium graveolens oil, ParfumMedium risk
Comedogenic2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale2 flagged
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Ingredients
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Water~40–60%
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~5.6–8.4%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
More about Caprylic/capric triglycerideAloe barbadensis leaf juice~3.7–5.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceCetearyl alcohol~2.4–3.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
More about Cetearyl alcoholButyrospermum parkii butter~2.3–3.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
More about Butyrospermum parkii butterOlea europaea fruit oil~1.8–2.6%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation
More about Olea europaea fruit oilGlycerin~1.6–2.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinCyclomethicone~1.3–2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of silicone that leaves a nice silky finish on the skin and can help soften its upper layer
More about CyclomethiconeSodium pca~1.1–1.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer
More about Sodium pcaGlyceryl stearate citrate~0.9–1.35%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin
More about Glyceryl stearate citrateHelianthus annuus seed oil~0.55–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
More about Helianthus annuus seed oilPhenoxyethanol~0.45–1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolEthylhexylglycerin~0.4–0.95%
Dextran~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar
More about DextranTrifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2~0.35–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2Avena sativa kernel extract~0.35–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties
More about Avena sativa kernel extractCamellia sinensis leaf extract~0.15–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation
More about Camellia sinensis leaf extractPelargonium graveolens oil~0.15–0.55%
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency
More about Xanthan gumDisodium edta~0.1–0.4%
Benzyl alcohol~0.05–0.25%
- Irritation risk
- High
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
More about Benzyl alcoholParfum~0.1–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- High
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
More about ParfumAloe barbadensis extract~0.05–0.25%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin
More about Aloe barbadensis extractCucumis sativus extract~0.05–0.2%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Sodium hydroxide~0.05–0.2%
Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Cetearyl alcohol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Olea europaea fruit oil, Glycerin, Cyclomethicone, Sodium pca, Glyceryl stearate citrate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextran, Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2, Avena sativa kernel extract, Unknown, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Pelargonium graveolens oil, Xanthan gum, Disodium edta, Benzyl alcohol, Parfum, Aloe barbadensis extract, Cucumis sativus extract, Sodium hydroxide
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| InstitutMoisture Defence Ultra DryYOUR PRODUCT | KORRESBlack Pine Bounce Firming Moisturiser | The outsetRestorative Niacinamide Night Cream | Dr. BrandtDo Not Age Time Defying Cream | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 52% | 51% | 51% |
| Price | $73.32 | $34.37−$38.95 | $44.00−$29.32 | $102.96+$29.64 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 6 of 9 | 5 of 9 | 6 of 9 |
| Key difference | — | Lactic Acid | Niacinamide | Cyclopentasiloxane |
| Irritancy | Medium | Medium | Medium | Medium |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | — | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
Product summary
Based on the ingredients included, "Institut - Moisture Defence Ultra Dry" works well for moisturizing the skin. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Institut - Moisture Defence Ultra Dry ticks this box. Humectants in this product (cyclomethicone, dextran, glycerin, sodium pca and aloe barbadensis extract) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Cyclomethicone, butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil and cetearyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 0.35% - 0.75%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
Irritation risk
There are some common irritants in this product, including ingredients that do not have benefits for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 6 studies and safety reviews.
- 1Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
- 2
- 3
- 4
- 5Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
- 6
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