Institut Esthederm

Lift & Repair Absolute Repulp Balm

Name: Institut Esthederm - Lift & Repair Absolute Repulp Balm
Brand: Institut Esthederm

Efficacy 87/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

"Institut Esthederm - Lift & Repair Absolute Repulp Balm" has a good moisturizing formula.

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Product summary

"Institut Esthederm - Lift & Repair Absolute Repulp Balm" has a good moisturizing formula. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. Institut Esthederm - Lift & Repair Absolute Repulp Balm ticks this box. Humectants in this product (algae extract, carnosine, glycerin, sodium lactate and hydrolyzed wheat protein) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, algae extract, stearyl dimethicone and dimethicone in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.20% - 0.35% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.20% - 0.35%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassic acid 0.20% - 0.40%, asiatic acid 0.20% - 0.40% and asiaticoside 0.20% - 0.35% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 71.00£ up to 83.29£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

14 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: algae extract, carnosine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, algae extract.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

MADECASSIC ACIDRole: HeroAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.4%

PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7Role: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1Role: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

CARNOSINERole: Key activeA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%

CYCLOPENTASILOXANERole: Key activeA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~0.3–0.6%

DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.5–1.8%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.3–0.55%

SODIUM LACTATERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.25–0.45%

STEARYL DIMETHICONERole: Key activeHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.95–1.15%

SUPEROXIDE DISMUTASERole: Key activeAn antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants~0.1–0.2%

ALGAE EXTRACTRole: Key activePlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet~0.25–0.5%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

ASIATIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.4%

ASIATICOSIDERole: Key activeAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.35%

Anti-aging

7 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Good evidence

This product contains asiaticoside, carnosine, creatine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7Role: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1Role: Key activeA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

CARNOSINERole: Key activeA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%

CREATINERole: Key activeCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.25–0.45%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Anti-oxidation

Brand does not advertise this — the formula does

Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, carnosine, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

CARNOSINERole: Key activeA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%

CREATINERole: Key activeCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.25–0.45%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Irritancy

20 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearateUsed to create a thicker product consistencyLow~1.2–1.5%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.3–0.6%est.

Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureLow~0.3–0.55%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureLow~0.3–0.6%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishLow~0.25–0.5%est.

Glyceryl laurateHelps water and oil mix together and has an anti-microbial effect helping to preserve product formulationsLow~0.3–0.55%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.3–0.5%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.3–0.5%est.

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productLow~0.25–0.45%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.25–0.45%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Comedogenic

Algae extract ~0.25–0.5% — rinse-off or low %

Some risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Algae extractPlant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yetHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~2–2.4%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Lift & Repair Absolute Repulp Balm

Product summary

Ingredient callouts

Irritation risk

Price

Product claims breakdown

Ingredients

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