Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm INTENSIVE VITAMIN C GEL-CREAM

Name: Institut Esthederm - INTENSIVE VITAMIN C GEL-CREAM
Brand: Institut Esthederm

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

3 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“It offers several actions reduces spots reduces the intensity of existing spots and restores the skin's clarity and uniformity;restores radiance the anti-oxidant action of stabilized vitamin C protects against damage caused by free radicals, responsible for dull complexion ;smoothes the cutaneous micro-relief stabilized vitamin C, a collagen booster, acts to visibly reduce fine lines.Results Spots are diminished, the complexion becomes uniform and luminous again.”

Source: Cocoon Center

This product contains ascorbyl glucoside, carnosine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.9–2.4%

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.05–0.1%

Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.25%

Moisturizing

12 ingredients credited for this claim

Good support

What the product description says

“This lightweight formulation is suitable for all skin types but still delivers a boost of hydration to the skin!”

Source: Face the future

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carnosine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, squalane.

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.45–0.7%

CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.05–0.1%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.55–0.8%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.8–4.7%

Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~1.2–1.4%

C10-18 triglyceridesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture~1.6–2%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.5–1.8%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.95–1.2%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.4–0.65%

Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.25–0.45%

Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~3–3.7%

Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.15–0.25%

Evens skin tone

1 ingredient credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“It offers several actions reduces spots reduces the intensity of existing spots and restores the skin's clarity and uniformity;restores radiance the anti-oxidant action of stabilized vitamin C protects against damage caused by free radicals, responsible for dull complexion ;smoothes the cutaneous micro-relief stabilized vitamin C, a collagen booster, acts to visibly reduce fine lines.Results Spots are diminished, the complexion becomes uniform and luminous again.”

Source: Cocoon Center

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: ascorbyl glucoside.

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - ascorbyl glucoside also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.05–0.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Parfum

Medium risk

We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.5%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~1.9–2.4%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.55–0.85%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

Cetearyl glucosideHelps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product textureMedium~0.45–0.7%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.15–0.25%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.5–1.8%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~4.9–5.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate

Glycerin~3.8–4.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Octyldodecanol~3–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol

Propanediol~2.3–2.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Ascorbyl glucoside~1.9–2.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside

C10-18 triglycerides~1.6–2%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture

More about C10-18 triglycerides

Cetearyl alcohol~1.5–1.8%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Cetyl palmitate~1.2–1.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate

Glyceryl stearate~0.95–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Peg-100 stearate~0.75–1.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate

1,2-hexanediol~0.55–0.85%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Silica~0.8–1.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica

Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6

Dimethicone~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Cetearyl glucoside~0.45–0.7%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture

More about Cetearyl glucoside

Squalane~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Caprylyl glycol~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture

More about Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer

Sodium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Parfum~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Sodium citrate~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products

More about Sodium citrate

Disodium phosphate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate

Polysorbate 60~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Propylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Potassium phosphate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate

Sorbitan isostearate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Carnosine~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine

Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate

Laminaria digitata extract~0.15–0.25%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract

Water~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.1–0.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate

Carnosine~0.05–0.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine

Mineral salts~0.05–0.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicked product formulations. Might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin

More about Mineral salts

Ingredient list view

Water, Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, Propanediol, Ascorbyl glucoside, C10-18 triglycerides, Cetearyl alcohol, Cetyl palmitate, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, 1,2-hexanediol, Silica, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Cetearyl glucoside, Squalane, Caprylyl glycol, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Sodium hydroxide, Parfum, Sodium citrate, Disodium phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Propylene glycol, Potassium phosphate, Sorbitan isostearate, Carnosine, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Laminaria digitata extract, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts