Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-oxidation
- Exfoliation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 4
Key actives
Product Summary
"Institut Esthederm - Intensive Retinol Serum" is effective for: Anti-inflammatory, Evens skin tone, Exfoliation, Anti-aging and Anti-blemish
This product could be helpful for: Moisturizing, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.
Ingredient callouts
- this product contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.20% - 0.35%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily.
- Humectants (mannitol 0.25% - 0.50%, mannitol 2.30% - 2.80%, carnosine 0.25% - 0.50%, carnosine 1.10% - 1.40%, artemia extract 0.25% - 0.50%, algae extract 0.35% - 0.60%, artemia extract 0.45% - 0.65% and algae extract 0.60% - 0.90%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.
Price
The product retails for 122.57A$ in Australia and from 52.19£ up to 54.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
The serum's luxurious, dry oil texture melts effortlessly into skin, delivering a precursor of Retinol to encourage a youthful-looking complexion.
Source: Face the future
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: carnosine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, retinol, superoxide dismutase) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - squalene also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
An emollient that helps soften the skin
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Exfoliation
This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Moisturizing
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
algae extract, artemia extract.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalene, algae extract.
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
An emollient that helps soften the skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Institut Esthederm Intensive Retinol Serum | Current | $52.19 | |
innisfree Retinol Cica Repair Ampoule Mini | 84% | $20.80 | |
SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex .25 | 84% | $64.00 | |
 The INKEY List CA SuperSolutions 1 Retinol Serum | 84% | - | |
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 Sothys Cosmeceutique RX Retinol Dermobooster | 83% | $85.80 |
Key Actives
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
An emollient that helps soften the skin
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated
Potential irritants
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Comedogenic ingredients
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
All ingredients
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function
Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation
Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function
Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation
Helps create a thicker product consistency. Might be irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
An antioxidant enzyme that is naturally present in skin. It can help support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin. It is used in topical medications for inflammatory skin conditions including atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. There are three types of natural Superoxide Dismutase in human skin. The compound used in topical treatments and cosmetics are mimics of typically one of these natural variants
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures
This oil's cmposition is closest to rapeseed oil. It is a very stable oil and serves as an emoillient
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A phytosterol that can support skin's barrier function and help the skin stay hydrated
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
Ingredient list view
Water, Propylene glycol, Citric acid, Glucose, Mannitol, Disodium phosphate, Potassium chloride, Calcium chloride, Carnosine, Magnesium chloride, Magnesium sulfate, Potassium phosphate, Algae extract, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Superoxide dismutase, Artemia extract, Sodium citrate, Sodium chloride, Sodium bicarbonate, Nitrogen, Water, Propylene glycol, Citric acid, Glucose, Mannitol, Disodium phosphate, Potassium chloride, Calcium chloride, Carnosine, Magnesium chloride, Magnesium sulfate, Potassium phosphate, Algae extract, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Superoxide dismutase, Artemia extract, Sodium citrate, Sodium chloride, Sodium bicarbonate, Nitrogen, Limnanthes alba seed oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Potassium caprylate, Glycine soja oil, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Cyperus esculentus root oil, Bht, Retinol, Parfum, Tocopherol, Beta-sitosterol, Squalene, Eugenol
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Function
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- Safety Assessment of Magnesium Sulfate as Used in Cosmetics
- A novel efficient and safe treatment for atopic dermatitis: Topical superoxide dismutase (SOD).
- Novel topical agent containing superoxide dismutase 100 000 IU and 4% of plant extracts as a mono-therapy for atopic dermatitis
- Copper/Zinc Superoxide Dismutase in Human Skin: Current Knowledge
- Photoprotective Effect of Topically Applied Superoxide Dismutase on Sunburn Reaction in Comparison with Sunscreen
- The role of superoxide dismutase (SOD) in skin disorders
- Topical formulations with superoxide dismutase: Influence of formulation composition on physical stability and enzymatic activity
- Skin protective effects of RM191A, a novel superoxide dismutase mimetic
- The Effects of Purified Artemia Extract Proteins on Proliferation, Differentiation and Apoptosis of Human Leukemic HL-60 Cells
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics
- The Ameliorative Effect of β-sitosterol on DNCB-induced Atopic Dermatitis in Mice
- Squalene and its potential clinical uses
- Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology
- Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides