Institut Esthederm Intensive Retinol Cream
Works for
MoisturizingGlycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane + 9 moreWorks
“Institut Esthederm INTENSIVE Retinol Smoothing Face Cream is a smoothing moisturiser formulated with an optimum and targeted concentration of Retinol Precursor (etinyl palmitate) to smooth all types of wrinkles, including the deep ones, while not irritating the skin.”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
algae extract, carnosine.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, squalane.
Anti-agingRetinyl palmitate, Carnosine + 1 moreMay help
“Smoothes all wrinkles - even deep ones”
This product contains carnosine, retinyl palmitate. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
Evens skin toneRetinyl palmitateMay help
“Evens out the skin tone and gives a "new skin effect".”
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate.
Anti-oxidationSide benefit · CarnosineWorks well
This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy3 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Retinyl palmitate + 1 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
Comedogenic2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale2 flagged
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Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~40–60%
Glycerin~3.7–5.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinCetearyl isononanoate~3.7–5.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that softens the skin and helps prevent moisture loss.
More about Cetearyl isononanoateCyclopentasiloxane~2.7–4.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
More about CyclopentasiloxanePropylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~2.1–3.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Alcohol denat.~1.6–2.5%
- Irritation risk
- High
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
More about Alcohol denat.Dipropylene glycol~1.3–2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying
More about Dipropylene glycolGlycol palmitate~1.2–1.9%
Cetearyl alcohol~1.1–1.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
More about Cetearyl alcoholGlyceryl stearate~0.85–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
More about Glyceryl stearatePeg-100 stearate~0.55–1.25%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
More about Peg-100 stearateCetyl palmitate~0.45–1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability
More about Cetyl palmitatePtfe~0.4–0.95%
Retinyl palmitate~0.3–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- High
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
More about Retinyl palmitateHelianthus annuus seed oil~0.3–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
More about Helianthus annuus seed oilCarnosine~0.2–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
More about CarnosineSodium hydroxide~0.2–0.75%
Algae extract~0.3–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
More about Algae extractDisodium adenosine triphosphate~0.15–0.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish
More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerAmmonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions
More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymerCetearyl glucoside~0.15–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps water and oil in the product mix well together and improves product texture
More about Cetearyl glucosideSqualane~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
More about SqualaneC30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to create a nice silky product texture
More about C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymerPolysorbate 60~0.15–0.5%
Peg/ppg-18/18 dimethicone~0.1–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that mixes with water creating nice light-weight product texture
More about Peg/ppg-18/18 dimethiconePropylene glycol~0.1–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- High
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
More about Propylene glycolPentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.1–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to increase stability of product formulations
More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamatePhenoxyethanol~0.1–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolChlorphenesin~0.05–0.2%
Disodium edta~0.05–0.25%
Parfum~0.05–0.15%
- Irritation risk
- High
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
More about ParfumIngredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl isononanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Alcohol denat., Dipropylene glycol, Glycol palmitate, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Cetyl palmitate, Ptfe, Retinyl palmitate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Carnosine, Sodium hydroxide, Algae extract, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Cetearyl glucoside, Squalane, C30-45 alkyl cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Polysorbate 60, Peg/ppg-18/18 dimethicone, Propylene glycol, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Disodium edta, Parfum
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| Institut EsthedermIntensive Retinol CreamYOUR PRODUCT | ElizaveccaMilky Piggy Aqua Rising Steam Filler Moisture Cream | ThalgoNutriSoothing Cream | BiodermaHydrabio Creme - Rich Moisturising Care | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 42% | 42% | 42% |
| Price | $108.00 | $15.80−$92.20 | $37.86−$70.14 | $16.85−$91.15 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 5 of 8 | 4 of 8 | 4 of 8 |
| Key difference | — | Panthenol | Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 | Salicylic Acid |
| Irritancy | High | Medium | Medium | Medium |
| Drying alcohol | Contains drying alcohol | — | — | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
More alternatives: Swissline Youth Inducing CreamMesoestetic Age Element Firming Cream
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 11 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2Safety Assessment of Fluoropolymers as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
- 3
- 4
- 5Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
- 6
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