Institut Esthederm

City Cream UV InCellium Protective Day Cream

Name: Institut Esthederm - City Cream UV InCellium Protective Day Cream
Brand: Institut Esthederm

Efficacy 87/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

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Product claims breakdown

Anti-aging

ADENOSINE at ~0.25–0.4% + 3 more curated actives

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: carnosine, creatine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

ADENOSINERole: HeroMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.4%

CARNOSINERole: Key activeA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.15–0.3%

CREATINERole: Key activeCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.6–0.9%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.75–1.1%

Moisturizing

12 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Good evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: artemia extract, carnosine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, peg-10 dimethicone.

ARTEMIA EXTRACTRole: Key activeZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.25%

CARNOSINERole: Key activeA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.15–0.3%

DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.3–6.5%

FAEX EXTRACTRole: Key activeYeast extract. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.5%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.4–4.1%

GLYCINERole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.4–0.65%

GLYCINE SOJA OILRole: Key activeA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.45–0.65%

MANNITOLRole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%

PEG-10 DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss~2.4–2.9%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.75–1.1%

YEAST EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and skin lightening properties. It can help calm down inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Anti-oxidation

Brand does not advertise this — the formula does

Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine, glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

ARTEMIA EXTRACTRole: Key activeZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.25%

CARNOSINERole: Key activeA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.15–0.3%

CREATINERole: Key activeCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.6–0.9%

GLYCYRRHETINIC ACIDRole: Key activeActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.6–0.85%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.75–1.1%

Irritancy

9 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 9 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.45–0.65%est.

Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationLow~0.6–0.85%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureLow~0.55–0.85%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeLow~0.5–0.75%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.5–0.75%est.

Sodium citrateHelps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve productsLow~0.45–0.65%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Low~0.45–0.65%est.

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenLow~0.3–0.55%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin

High risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the momentHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~0.5–0.75%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Med~0.45–0.65%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

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City Cream UV InCellium Protective Day Cream

Product claims breakdown

Ingredients

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