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innisfree Intensive hydrating oil
innisfree

innisfree Intensive hydrating oil

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
Squalane, Camellia sinensis seed oil + 9 more
Good evidence
What the product description says
“Intensive hydrating oil”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: camellia sinensis seed oil, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~1.8–2.7%
Camellia sinensis seed oilKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~23–34%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.7–7%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.4–0.95%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~2.2–3.4%
Oryza sativa bran oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.85–1.3%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~3–4.4%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~4.4–6.5%
Isostearyl neopentanoate· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could be comedogenic~1.1–1.6%
Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.1–0.35%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.4–0.9%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Parfum, Citrus unshiu peel extract + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~1.1–1.7%est.
Citrus unshiu peel extract—High~0.2–0.75%est.
Opuntia coccinellifera fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.2–0.7%est.
Orchid extractA plant extract that can be used as fragranceHigh~0.15–0.65%est.
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract—High~0.15–0.6%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extractA plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
Citrus paradisi fruit extract—High~0.1–0.45%est.
Citrus tangerina extract—High~0.1–0.4%est.
Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.7–7%est.
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearateUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~3.4–5.1%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~3–4.4%est.
Isostearyl neopentanoateUsed to create a nice product texture and helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could be comedogenicMedium~1.1–1.6%est.
Camellia japonica leaf extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.1–0.35%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Isostearyl neopentanoateUsed to create a nice product texture and helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could be comedogenic2/5~1.1–1.6%est.
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Ingredients

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Camellia sinensis seed oil~23–34%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Camellia sinensis seed oil
Dicaprylyl carbonate~4.4–6.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.7–7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate~3.4–5.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate
Ricinus communis seed oil~3–4.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~2.2–3.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Squalane~1.8–2.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Parfum~1.1–1.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Isostearyl neopentanoate~1.1–1.6%
Comedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Could be comedogenic

More about Isostearyl neopentanoate
Oryza sativa bran oil~0.85–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Oryza sativa bran oil
Water~0.45–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Propanediol~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.4–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Camellia japonica leaf extract~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Camellia japonica leaf extract
Citrus unshiu peel extract~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus unshiu peel extract
Opuntia coccinellifera fruit extract~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Opuntia coccinellifera fruit extract
Orchid extract~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that can be used as fragrance

More about Orchid extract
Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract that is used as a fragrance. Can be irritating and lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract
Citrus paradisi fruit extract~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus paradisi fruit extract
Citrus tangerina extract~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Citrus tangerina extract
Lactic acid~0.1–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid
Ascorbic acid~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidation

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid
Citric acid~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Camellia sinensis seed oil, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, Ricinus communis seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Squalane, Parfum, Isostearyl neopentanoate, Oryza sativa bran oil, Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Camellia japonica leaf extract, Citrus unshiu peel extract, Opuntia coccinellifera fruit extract, Orchid extract, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Citrus paradisi fruit extract, Citrus tangerina extract, Lactic acid, Ascorbic acid, Citric acid

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Characteristics of Tea Seed Oil in Comparison with Sunflower and Olive Oils and Its Effect as a Natural Antioxidantlink.springer.com
  2. 2
    Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetraesters as Used in Cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  3. 3
    Final report on the safety assessment of Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate SE, Ricinoleic Acid, Potassium Ricinoleate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Zinc Ricinoleate, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Ethyl Ricinoleate, Glycol Ricinoleate, Isopropyl Ricinoleate, Methyl Ricinoleate, and Octyldodecyl Ricinoleatencbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Castor Oil: Properties, Uses, and Optimization of Processing Parameters in Commercial Productionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
innisfree Intensive hydrating oil
innisfreeIntensive hydrating oil
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